amc 20 axle seal problems

amc 20 axle seal problems

cj rob

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1982 cj7 with vortec 5.3, sittin on a 4.5" lift and 35's. This thing is nasty strong.
:confused:Ok can someone out there tell me what may be going on? I had the seals leaking and replaced both inner and outer seals. removed some shims due to too much end play in the axles. been driving it for about two weeks now and they are leaking again. The axles are two piece. I have not done the bearings yet but they are on the way. why am I going through seals AND would a one piece axle conversion get rid of all this SHIM :dung:?

1982 Jeep CJ7 with 5.3 vortec and sittin on 35's:chug:
 
If I were you , I'd take it back to the garage that did the seals a couple weeks ago. A decent shop will make their work good.

Possible problems. The place where the seals rife on the axles could be warn to the point where seals simply can't do the job any more. I've heard that a machine shop could take care of the problem. You might need new bearings. Tell us again, why did you remove the shims? Shims aren't bad guys, they are our friends. To much end play means you need MORE shims, not fewer. The shim thing confuses me.

One piece axles are NEVER a bad idea, you might not actually need them, but a bad idea they are not.
 
:confused:Ok can someone out there tell me what may be going on? I had the seals leaking and replaced both inner and outer seals. removed some shims due to too much end play in the axles. been driving it for about two weeks now and they are leaking again. The axles are two piece. I have not done the bearings yet but they are on the way. why am I going through seals AND would a one piece axle conversion get rid of all this SHIM :dung:?

1982 Jeep CJ7 with 5.3 vortec and sittin on 35's:chug:

I don't think one piece axles will resolve the issue your having. Often seals fail because of worn bearings...worn bearings provide excessive movement...which in turn, damages seals. Best guess is the bearing is worn OR, the seals were installed incorrectly, or, grooves in the axle where it mates to the seals. Hope this helps. :chug:
 
I really don't have a problem with the shims, just have no idea what I am working with. I have re built fords and chevys but never seen anything like this. will a one piece axle conversion get rid of all the shim stuff or do I still use them with the one piece axles too. with the tire size and the power and a locker that it has, I need to get rid of this weak link.
 
Make sure the axle housing is straight.
LG
 
with the tire size and the power and a locker that it has, I need to get rid of this weak link.

I think your best idea is to get rid of the 20. With a 5.3 and 35" tires, it's a ticking time bomb.
 
Shims usually are there to make up for variations in manufacuring tolerances, I.E. get an axle housing in tolerance but on the short side and an axle on the long side, shims take care of the problem. Unfortunately this isn't a Ford or Chevy, it's an AMC and you've got to work with what you have. If shims are needed, for goodness sake shim. It's not like this is something your going to need to do frequently. Get it done right and forget it for a while. Also, if your in there doing seals, do the bearings as well.

...... And pay attention to what the others are saying, it's all good advice.
 
Dump the AMC20. Do not put any money into it. Your profile says you cant stay off the skinny pedal. :D

YUP!
They're a POS anyhoo----
Surprised it last this long. :notworthy:
LG
 
Hey I like my AMC20.
 
Well.....not exactly oem. Actually not even remotely close to oem.
 
To answer you question, you can toss the shims if you convert to one-piece axles. It might clear up your leak too if the stock axles are wore or scratched where the seal mates.
 
Dont get me wrong , you can build a AMC20 to an extent. I just wouldnt in this instance with his drivetrain.

I think a ford 8.8 or 9" would be a good swap here. Kinda lean'n to the 9".
You could go stupid strong than if needed.
 
thanks guys for all the advice. I have a 77 ford with a 9 sitting right outside. what would be a good match for the front with a passenger drop?
 
Put a 9" in the back of my CJ, 22 years ago. One of the best mods I ever did.
BIG shoe brakes and the p'brake just hooked up.
LG
 
hey grits. did you leave it wide or did you have it narrowed? I kinda like the wide look but not sure what the road manners would be like. any idea on a match for the front?
 
Currie built, to my specs.
Same width as my OEM, WT '20'.
Look for a 44, for the front.

LG
 
hey grits. did you leave it wide or did you have it narrowed? I kinda like the wide look but not sure what the road manners would be like. any idea on a match for the front?

Full width around here isn't street legal. Pa says the tires can't stick out beyond the flares. They also don't like big flares. Now if your just gonna trailer your Cj it won't matter. I drive mine back and forth to work
 

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