Build Thread 1986 CJ7 Build

[KRUPP]

A literal barn find CJ7 I recently purchased from my Father. Has been sitting in storage since 1998. 80,000 miles and all original, except a re-paint job back in the 90s.
My plan is to clean/repair/replace every "system" in order to get it back up and running.

Systems worked on thus far since April...
-Cooling: New water pump, t-stat & housing. All new hoses and fittings for the heater hoses at the intake manifold. Radiator taken to shop for cleanout and rehab (still waiting on it). New radiator hoses and cap.
-Fuel: Dropped fuel tank to clean out/flush. New rubber hoses at top of tank. New filler & vent hose at tank. Tore off the Carter BBD carb (what a train-wreck that thing is!!). Beginning the install of Howell TBI system. Replacing all vac lines.
-Oil: Oil change and filter change. Replacing valve cover with new Aluminum unit and new Felpro silicone gasket (still waiting on correct Gasket).

I'm selling take-off items as I go, such as...
-Hard top
-Hard doors
-AC system
-Steps
-Bumperettes
-Console

Fun so far. This is my second CJ build, but it's been about 25 years.

 

[Belizean]

Welcome ! Looks great. We love pictures.

 

[Project86]

I've seen people start with jeeps in worse shape. Ask me how I know! Good luck.

 

[KRUPP]

Update to systems worked on since July 28...

-Cooling: Radiator back from shop and installed along with new hoses. Guys did a great job - looks like you could drink from it now.
New coolant catch reservoir installed.
-Fuel: Howell TBI install about 75% complete. Just sorting through the existing wiring now and about ready to install new wire harness.
Purchased a new air cleaner (10" Edelbrock Chrome unit) and plumbed it up for the crank case breather from the rear of valve cover.
-Oil: Replaced valve cover with new Aluminum unit and new Felpro silicone gasket.
Cut down OEM dipstick and tube to fit behind the new HEI Distributor.
-Elec: New Delco Remy alternator installed and wired. Still have some questions though about the brown "sense wire" I think, and where it came from? New belt installed.
New Summit Racing "blueprinted" HEI Distributor installed. Still have questions about the correct hot wire to use and the correct Tachometer wiring method. My Jeep has the OEM tach.
Old Duraspark Ignition removed, along with most of the wires.
Spark plug wires are ordered, on backorder thru Summit Racing.
Battery tray all cleaned up, repainted and reinstalled.
I elected not to re-use the Intake Manifold Heater, because of the EFI install and the fact that this Jeep will not be driven in the winter. I removed the switch at the Oil Pressure Sending Unit and the related wiring/relay.

Sold take-off items so far...
-Hard top
-Hard doors

Still available...
-AC system
-Steps
-Bumperettes
-Console
-OEM Air Cleaner

 

[KRUPP]

I've been asked about the center console that is still available. See pics attached.
Seems to be o.e.m. The lid-keeper-cable connects to the bottom of the cup holder - there's a crack at the rivet where it attaches. Other that that, it's in great shape.

 

[Belizean]

Yea that’s OEM.

 

[KRUPP]

Got it running last night. Fired up after a few tries. I'm sure it took a while for fuel to make it to the motor, since everything was dry.
Seems that I have some ignition issues though, but need to take a day or two off and get back on it next week.
-Still need a gas cap
-Think I have the AC system sold locally. Supposed to hook up with a guy on Sunday.

Next on the list...
-Change the rest of the fuilds in the drivetrain (F & R Diffs, Trans, T-Case, Brake Fluid)
-Brakes! First little ride around the block proved that they need attention. Geesh!!!
-Seat to upholstery shop. I'm thinking a good shop could make the driver's side bottom match the seat back. I like the Laredo stripes so will try to keep 'em. The P.O.'s electrical tape doesn't quite match.

 

[Belizean]

Engine bay looks good

 

[KRUPP]

Update Aug 31, 22.
-Was struggling and scratching my head for a couple days dealing with a rough idle after the new Howell TBI and HEI ignition install. After much trial and error, I discovered that the MAP sensor needed to be installed waaaaaay closer to the throttle body than the instructions indicate. After relocating it to about 3" behind the throttle body, all rough idle issues are gone. It's basically just floating there like a lollypop on the end of the 3" vac hose. Found a YouTube video that explained this is necessary with the "newer" MAP sensors. Who Knew?
-Temperature Gauge doesn't work on my dash. Did some trouble-shooting and I determined a new sensor was needed. Haven't warmed the Jeep up yet to see if that's it.
-Brake Master Cylinder and Vac Booster ordered. Took the old ones off and boy oh boy, was that a lot more difficult than it should've been! The pin at the end of the shaft from the booster to the link arm was frikin' fused in there. I tried PB Blaster, heat, beating the out of it, etc, with no luck. Ended up taking the sawzall to the pesky 3/8" pin. Geesh!
-But now, I see that the 2 little nylon flanged bushings (1/2" ID, go in the pivot of the booster linkage arm) are near their death. Where do I find these little gems? Internet search leads me to special ordering where the shipping costs about $50 for $5 bushings. Any ideas, other than searching the parts bins at the hardware/farm stores?
-New tail lights installed, along with new wires to the passenger side which were in bad shape.
-Removed tailgate to clean up the hinges and remove/reinstall new cables and hardware. Cleaned everything up & reinstalled.

 

[TSB8C]

When I did mine, I used these from Amazon: Nylon Bushings

Had to slightly take down the outer diameter with a file by using a bolt to chuck them up in the drill press (like a homemade lathe).

 

[KRUPP]

Sep 28, 2022...
-F & R diff fluid changed. Trans and T-Case fluid changed as well. Flushed brake fluid.
-Got the bushings for the brake pivot arm on the brake booster figured out. Combo of old nylon ones, a new pin, and brass washers seemed to do the trick.
-At the time of brake fluid flushing, it was obvious that the rear brake cylinders were leaking/not functioning properly. I went ahead and replaced both cylinders on the rear end. Shoes and drums were in great shape, so I just cleaned everything up and reassembled both sides. Cleaned up the backing plates and sprayed on a new coat of rustoleum.
-Tail pipe basically fell off when I looked at it for a second or two. It took the muffler exit pipe with it. So, I went ahead and ordered a new muffler, catalytic converter and tail pipe. The cat was "gutted" by P.O. and is necessary where I live to pass emissions. In CO, they require a CA approved catalytic converter, which about triples the cost of the item. I used my little 80amp wire feed to stitch the exhaust system together. Dropped the skid plate to remove the old and install the new assembly all in one piece. It was much better to dry-fit the entire exhaust assembly out on the bench and weld it up there, versus having to do it beneath the jeep. Strapped up the t-case with a ratchet strap while the skid plate was off. I also rolled the jeep outside to give it a good powerwashing while the skid plate was off.
-Removed the anti-sway bar from the front end. Of course 2 out of 6 bolts had their corresponding nuts come loose and spin on me inside the frame. So, that 20 minute removal task took about 1-1/2 hours because of having to cut/saw the bolt heads off.

 

[TSB8C]

Old jeeps and a welder - a match made in Heaven for when you just need to touch up a couple of spots.

 

[KRUPP]

TS, that's a lot of wire laid down there. Ha!

I have some holes to fill where the factory tire carrier was bolted through the rear corners. I was thinking of welding them up, but I don't have any experience with that.
Do you have any suggestions? I was thinking of using some sort of backing sheet metal behind each hole, and then just filling them with the welder. Slow and cold to prevent warping, I guess. Lots of grinding afterwards.
Ideas?

 

[KRUPP]

 

[TSB8C]

The process I use is to use a piece of dissimilar metal (copper or aluminum) as a backing plate behind the hole I am filling. Clamp that behind the hole and then fill it in from the front/outside. The steel filler wire from the welder won't mix with the copper or aluminum backing plate. Then as you aid, short bursts without too much heat. Now I use a TIG setup with ER70S2 filler wire. Then grind it down smooth when done.

Check out this great write-up for more tips: Welding Tips for Filling Holes

 

[KRUPP]

Thanks for the info. Appreciate it.

 

[Project86]

Maybe you could utilize the holes by making a couple of brackets for a Hi Lift jack or other such item.

 

[KRUPP]

Thanks. Yes, I thought about utilizing the holes. Problem is they're on both sides.
I thought about diamond plate corner protectors too, but that's kinda 1990s and I had them on my last CJ. Plan is to get a paint job, so a bit of filling and grinding will probably be the path.

 

[TSB8C]

For those not comfortable with welding:

 

[85yellowcj7]

A little late, but those plastic bushings look a lot like the bushings on the D300 shifter. Don't know the size, but you may try them. AMC used several of the same part in different places. The rubber bushings on the D300 are the same part number as the shock bushings. Couldn't find the brake bushings in the parts manual.

Search part number J5630135 for the d300 bushings. Couple bucks each.
https://www.quadratec.com/p/crown-automotive/shift-bushing-jeep-cj-series-dana-300-transfer-case