1982 Cj7 lifted bump steering, pics please help

[concreteroots]

Hello i bought a 1982 CJ7 jeep yesterday and i took it on the freeway home. Its bad, the bump steering is horrible, scary to drive. The old owner didnt do the lift and said he got used to it driving crazy. He ordered stock shackles to put on in replace for the talls ones. He will give me those and he said it will help a little but how much do you think it would help? I dont wanna go offroading at all just i would love to drive it back and forth to work while staying on the road, i dont have a lot of money atm was unemployeed for a year, is there anything i can do on top of the shackles to fix this mess? its my first jeep
thank you
Heres pics

 

[CJim7]

This is a textbook example of an improperly done SOA conversion.

There's no cheap fix for this Im afraid. Every picture shows an issue. This SOA was done absolutely incorrectly as far as steering goes. The only way to correct this is the addition of high steer knuckles and ditching the ridiculously tall shackles.
The bumpsteer is a side affect of the dranglink angle.

The other option is to go back to an SUA configuration.

I cant tell if there is a body lift...and the springs look aftermarket

 

[concreteroots]

how much would a high steer system run? how much would you say would improve with going back to stock shackles?

 

[CJim7]

how much would a high steer system run? how much would you say would improve with going back to stock shackles?

A high steer incorporates a taller steering arm on the knuckle. A lot of Dana 44's have these from factory. These knuckles can be used on the Dana 30 with some work. They aren't cheap, but they aren't real expensive either if you piece it all together. It will take some leg-work to find the used parts you need. I wont quote you a price, but I've seen them for a few hundred.

The shackles in your pics are immense. Going back to stock shackles will drop it down a few inches Im betting. This will take some angle out of the draglink and should help out your bumpsteer. It wont cure it, but it will help.

 

[concreteroots]

now ive read about fliping the tie rod and i belive the drag rod, do you litterly flip them upside down? also, if you would tell me in a percent so i can understand more about the shackles, if 100% is 0 bump steer, and 0% is death where its at now, how much do you think would improve with the stock shackles put back on? ive talked to the owner and he said he would be willing to buy it back. i might be considering it.

 

[concreteroots]

the front shackles are 6 inches and the back are 7inches

 

[CJim7]

the front shackles are 6 inches and the back are 7inches

Is that eye-eye? Stock Cj shackles are 3 inches eye-eye.

In your case, flipping the draglink will interfere with the springs, Im almost sure of it

 

[concreteroots]

5 inches eye to eye in front and 5.5 in the back

 

[CJim7]

Flipping the tierod/draglink is simply moving the tie rod ends to the top of the steering arm. They are tapered so they need to be reamed and sleeves used.

I cant give you a % of improvement going back to the stock shackles, but it will be better then it is now.

When an SOA is done, a high-steer conversion is a must to keep the steering geometry correct. Unfortunately, replacing the shackles wont get it to 100%

 

[CJim7]

5 inches eye to eye in front and 5.5 in the back

So 1 inch of total lift in the front, 1¼ in the rear. (over stock shackles)

 

[concreteroots]

Will flipping just the tie rod help at all it will bring it closer to the drag but the drag will still be at that angle

 

[CJim7]

Will flipping just the tie rod help at all it will bring it closer to the drag but the drag will still be at that angle

No. Your draglink is the whole problem.

 

[concreteroots]

do you in your honest opinion think i should let a shop even look at it cause they would screw my eyes out? what about is there an longer item that the drag arm connects to, so the drag arm would be lower? does it exist?

 

[concreteroots]

the pit man arm

 

[concreteroots]

ok so they do make longer pit arms, how would i figure how long i would need to go? what do i measure?

 

[concreteroots]

Rugged Ridge 18006.51 - Rugged Ridge Drop Pitman Arm for 76-86 Jeep® CJ with 4" lift and Power Steering - Quadratec ?

 

[CJim7]

You already have a dropped pitman arm. Honestly the only way to fix this is to return to a spring-under configuration or bit the bullet and install a true high-steer conversion.

 

[CJ]

:ww: concreteroots. Please fill out your profile information as I requested when you joined our site. It makes it easier for us to help you.

 

[CJ]

The degree shims under the front perches scare the hell out of me. I bet that the shims and those shackles have fubared the hell out of your castor!

 

[CJim7]

The degree shims under the front perches scare the hell out of me. I bet that the shims and those shackles have fubared the hell out of your castor!

Yeah, and here's the sad thing about that CJ...When the spring pads were welded on, the proper angle for castor should have already been considered. There shouldnt BE a need for shims.

Going back to the stock shackles should eliminate the need for those shims....