Engine 1974 304 lifter, and cam problem

Engine 1974 304 lifter, and cam problem

jay47

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Location
Cedarville
Vehicle(s)
'74 CJ5, 304, T15, D20, D30 front, D44 rear
1974 304 concave lifters, (both) in #1 hole. Pushrods are not bent, and cam pushes back when I push down on both. I didn't know to break in cam, and lifters initially. Engine has approx. 2000 miles on complete rebuild through NAPA. They farmed it out I'm sure. It runs really great on 7 cylinders, but it's an 8 cylinder. So, what to do? Replace cam, and lifters, or tear it down, and really get into some loot with that, or what? I found a block newly machined for $650, bored 0.30 over, crank 0.10 under, so would need pistons, rings, bearings for crank, and connectors etc. Crank has been ground, and cam, and bearings are in. All else is good to go. All help is appreciated.
 
1974 304 concave lifters, (both) in #1 hole. Pushrods are not bent, and cam pushes back when I push down on both. I didn't know to break in cam, and lifters initially. Engine has approx. 2000 miles on complete rebuild through NAPA. They farmed it out I'm sure. It runs really great on 7 cylinders, but it's an 8 cylinder. So, what to do? Replace cam, and lifters, or tear it down, and really get into some loot with that, or what? I found a block newly machined for $650, bored 0.30 over, crank 0.10 under, so would need pistons, rings, bearings for crank, and connectors etc. Crank has been ground, and cam, and bearings are in. All else is good to go. All help is appreciated.
:welcome:
Bummer... :( and weird. I just looked at NAPA's warranty (3 Years) specifies 600 miles no specific cam break in required but does say Your NAPA Ironclad remanufactured engine requires special care during its initial “break-in”period. To ensure your engines long life expectancy and proper engine performance, please follow these procedures during the first 600 miles of operation. and Do not drive for long periods at any single speed, always vary your speed. which is vague. Also only non synthetic oil until 5,000 miles and The most important aspect of engine break-in is to allow for the piston rings to seat against the cylinder walls.
When did this start (miles)? Did you drive at one speed for "a long period" (vague)? Did you follow the guide?
It's rare for a cam to flatten after 2,000 miles.
Back to your question. Yes you can just put a cam kit in. That would be the most cost effective. If you want another engine I would go to a 360.
I attached the NAPA warranty.
This has came up a few times.

 

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  • napa_warranty.pdf
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:welcome:
Bummer... :( and weird. I just looked at NAPA's warranty (3 Years) specifies 600 miles no specific cam break in required but does say Your NAPA Ironclad remanufactured engine requires special care during its initial “break-in”period. To ensure your engines long life expectancy and proper engine performance, please follow these procedures during the first 600 miles of operation. and Do not drive for long periods at any single speed, always vary your speed. which is vague. Also only non synthetic oil until 5,000 miles and The most important aspect of engine break-in is to allow for the piston rings to seat against the cylinder walls.
When did this start (miles)? Did you drive at one speed for "a long period" (vague)? Did you follow the guide?
It's rare for a cam to flatten after 2,000 miles.
Back to your question. Yes you can just put a cam kit in. That would be the most cost effective. If you want another engine I would go to a 360.
I attached the NAPA warranty.
This has came up a few times.

I let it set for awhile not running it, and lifters looked varnished on sides, May have stuck in place. But I'm trying to decide on building from engine on my original post, or cam kit and change oil a few times after to help clear out any grit. That's my dilemma.
 

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