Np435 end play

[jakeh937]

Just a little confused. Have a rebuilt np435 that I recently installed the Novak adaptor to adapt to the Dana 20. Got the adaptor on (dry fitted) and torqued. Got the front input bearing retainer housing on with the input shaft (dry fitted) and torqued. I can't for the life of me figure out how to properly set end play. I know how to do it with the dial indicator and what not but as far as specs and how to do it, I'm confused. Spec is .006-.012. Do I measure this off the front input shaft? Rear shaft? Any help would be great. Thanks!


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[mriplaybass]

Don't take this as gospel truth, but my understanding of the NP435 front input shaft end play is that it is adjusted by installing or removing additional gaskets behind the bearing housing flange. The .006 to .012 sound about right from what I remember.
If this is a rebuilt transmission, wasn't the end play already set?

 

[jakeh937]

Don't take this as gospel truth, but my understanding of the NP435 front input shaft end play is that it is adjusted by installing or removing additional gaskets behind the bearing housing flange. The .006 to .012 sound about right from what I remember.
If this is a rebuilt transmission, wasn't the end play already set?

I rebuilt it myself. I'm just confused on if the end play is strictly based off the front input shaft or the entire main shaft or what


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[mriplaybass]

End play is referring to the input shaft, though there are additional shims between the 3rd and 4th gear synchronizer, but I don't know if these affect input shaft end play.

 

[jakeh937]

I was reading and I think they do. I rebuilt it a while ago and I'm almost certain I shimmed it correctly. The directions are just a little confusing from Novak haha


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[mriplaybass]

Don't I know it! I adapted a T14 to a BOP bell housing using one of their adapters, and the instructions didn't even give the torque! I called Novak, and the guy said there was no spec on that! He then looked up the torque based on bolt configuration. Could have done that myself instead of sitting on hold waiting for a tech!
At least the adapters are well made.
What is your end play reading?

 

[jakeh937]

Don't I know it! I adapted a T14 to a BOP bell housing using one of their adapters, and the instructions didn't even give the torque! I called Novak, and the guy said there was no spec on that! He then looked up the torque based on bolt configuration. Could have done that myself instead of sitting on hold waiting for a tech!
At least the adapters are well made.
What is your end play reading?

Right! So far any questions I have had they have been pretty helpful there. That's another question I have too. If I set the indicator on the inside hole of the shaft, it's not to accurate due to a slight up and down side to side movement, which I'm not sure if that's normal either? As far as testing the end play I haven't gotten that far due to the fact I'm not to sure what the best way to test it is as far as where to place it to get an accurate reading, will push and tug by hand work or do I need a bar, etc


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[mriplaybass]

Side to side play is normal. The shaft will be held true by the pilot bearing once the transmission is mated to the engine. I usually check end play using a pry bar with the top cover removed and gently pry back and forth on the gear. Put your dial indicator on the flat portion of the shaft end. If you go in the middle, the anvil can slide around and give a false reading. As long as the transmission is stable on your bench so there is no movement of the transmission while prying on the gear, the side play in the shaft should not be an issue.
Don't forget to install a new pilot bearing when you are ready to put things together. Many foul words have been issued by many of us who forget to replace this inexpensive part, and then hear the whine and feel the vibration and think .

 

[jakeh937]

Side to side play is normal. The shaft will be held true by the pilot bearing once the transmission is mated to the engine. I usually check end play using a pry bar with the top cover removed and gently pry back and forth on the gear. Put your dial indicator on the flat portion of the shaft end. If you go in the middle, the anvil can slide around and give a false reading. As long as the transmission is stable on your bench so there is no movement of the transmission while prying on the gear, the side play in the shaft should not be an issue.
Don't forget to install a new pilot bearing when you are ready to put things together. Many foul words have been issued by many of us who forget to replace this inexpensive part, and then hear the whine and feel the vibration and think .

I will give that a try and let you know what I come up with. I really appreciate the help from you and walking me through. It's just a confusing thing for me. As far as the pilot bushing I will do that. Thank you and I'll report back!


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[mriplaybass]

Glad to help! Good luck!

 

[jakeh937]

Glad to help! Good luck!

Just tested it and off the end of the shaft as you mentioned, im at about .0055-.006 so I think that's good. I don't know why I never thought to test it off that point before but it seems good to me. As far as the main shaft which extends through the rear, there seems to be no spec on endplay on that correct? I threw the gauge on it just for giggles and it's about .003 using a prybar back and forth on it. Does all that sound about right?



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[mriplaybass]

Sounds like you goterdone! Everything sounds good to me. Everything should be turning easily without binding.

 

[jakeh937]

Sounds like you goterdone! Everything sounds good to me. Everything should be turning easily without binding.

Awesome! I really appreciate all the help! As far as the front input bearing retainer shim/gasket, is that something to use rtv with or does the gasket/shin seal it up? Same with the rear housing?


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[mriplaybass]

You don't necessarily have to use sealant on the front bearing housing gasket, but I always do. Ounce of prevention and all that . A little sealant can avoid having to pull the transmission out if there would have been a leak without it. As for the rear, same thing, but the transmission to transfer case gasket would prevent any leak from developing a spot on your driveway. The transmission and transfer case are not designed to "share" oil, so a little sealant on the output would probably be a good idea too.

 

[jakeh937]

You don't necessarily have to use sealant on the front bearing housing gasket, but I always do. Ounce of prevention and all that . A little sealant can avoid having to pull the transmission out if there would have been a leak without it. As for the rear, same thing, but the transmission to transfer case gasket would prevent any leak from developing a spot on your driveway. The transmission and transfer case are not designed to "share" oil, so a little sealant on the output would probably be a good idea too.

Awesome. Man I really appreciate all your knowledge and help! Your the man!


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[jakeh937]

Got it all buttoned up. Final end play ended up being I believe around .008-.010 somewhere in that ballpark. Thanks again!!


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[gert]

sweet I love the NP435 I have 2 of them for my Dodges but I have never rebuilt them so I did not know how to answer your question