Trans knob replacements

[CJJP1984]

For some context, the jeep is an '84 that is heavily modified, ford 302 v8 engine, big body lift, lots of other strictly off-road adds. I bought a new gear shifter knob, but the stick that is on there isn't threaded. The old "konb" which is a T shaped handle was attached with a screw through the handle and the stick. Assume that means I need to get a new stick that is threaded? I finaly figured out how to get the existing stick off, but not sure how to know which new stick to buy.

The transfer case knob is trashed; just the plastic piece that was under the rubber cover is still attached. Haven't been able to unscrew that; tried pipe wrench, locking pliers, my teeth, etc....won't budge. Doesn't feel like it's screwed on there. Appears to be pushed down on the stick. The part of the top of the stick that is visible (below the plastic piece) has a diamond-like pattern on it (probably not describing that correctly).

Anyone have any thoughts on the new stick shift identification or how to get the rest of the transfer case knob off?

 

[Manic Mechanic]

If the transfer case shifter (not the knob) is original it will have a jam nut on it that a wrench will only fit one way.

As for what to get that depends on transmission TBH. For me I'm running a t5 with a custom made shifter. I'll look for pictures

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[Belizean]

Somewhere along the line my transfer case knob broke off. I put some new threads on and found a nice SS ball knob about the size of a billiard ball and works well now

 

[Manic Mechanic]

I'm using skull shift knobs threaded to 3/8-16

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[TSB8C]

Original D300 t-case shift lever is threaded and the knob screws on with a jam nut under it. Need to loosen the jam nut under the knob, then screw the knob off.

Amazon replacement t-case knob and jam nut

For the t-handle transmission shifter, there are lots of universal options with insets that have "set screws" that simply tighten down against an unthreaded or damaged shaft. You didn't mention what trans you have, so hard to recommend much.

You can also get an adapter that will put a threaded shift knob onto an unthreaded or damaged shaft. Adapter on Amazon

For my Lokar shifter on my 700R4 auto, it came with a plastic knob that requires a push button in the center. After about 3,000 miles of pressing that plastic center button, the threads on the underside of the plastic ball stripped. So I machined a stainless "mushroom" shaped ball with a button in the center and the right 3/8-16 threads to match the Lokar shaft. Metal on metal now rather than plastic on metal. Along with a jam nut, nice and tight. I also twin-sticked the D300 and got some billet aluminum knobs for it. They are etched with "Front" and "Rear" along with the "H", "N" and "L" markings on them.



Billet D300 twin stick knobs

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Here's the factory jam nut. My Dana 300 is still stock for now. The t5 is a 10ton frame machine chain from a body I use to work at.

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[TSB8C]

Love the welded chain shifter.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Love the welded chain shifter.

I'm going to do the same for my transfer case shifter

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[Belizean]

Definitely a different look.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Both skulls started out white but the transmission shifter gets way more use so it's fairly dirty but I like the dirt covered look better TBH

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[CJJP1984]

those are awesome.

 

[CJJP1984]

Original D300 t-case shift lever is threaded and the knob screws on with a jam nut under it. Need to loosen the jam nut under the knob, then screw the knob off.

Amazon replacement t-case knob and jam nut

For the t-handle transmission shifter, there are lots of universal options with insets that have "set screws" that simply tighten down against an unthreaded or damaged shaft. You didn't mention what trans you have, so hard to recommend much.

You can also get an adapter that will put a threaded shift knob onto an unthreaded or damaged shaft. Adapter on Amazon

For my Lokar shifter on my 700R4 auto, it came with a plastic knob that requires a push button in the center. After about 3,000 miles of pressing that plastic center button, the threads on the underside of the plastic ball stripped. So I machined a stainless "mushroom" shaped ball with a button in the center and the right 3/8-16 threads to match the Lokar shaft. Metal on metal now rather than plastic on metal. Along with a jam nut, nice and tight. I also twin-sticked the D300 and got some billet aluminum knobs for it. They are etched with "Front" and "Rear" along with the "H", "N" and "L" markings on them.

View attachment 75736 View attachment 75737 View attachment 75738 View attachment 75739

Billet D300 twin stick knobs

unfortunately, I don't know what transmission I have on it. Not sure how I can tell? When I searched the vin, came up as a base model, but not sure that means much since it's got the V8 and a bunch of other mods....it's probably obvious, but I'll also say I have no idea about anything to do with engines, transmission, etc...I can change oil and do other minor things on my regular car, but I'm way out of my depth with this. First foray learning about all this.

 

[CJ]

Just click on the highlighted words in your post to be taken to our transmission database.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Take a few pictures of the transmission and any numbers or tags you may find. We maybe able to help figure out what you have

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[TSB8C]

To start with, auto or manual? You said you have a Ford V8 engine, so a first assumption would be a tranny that bolts up to a Ford. Then I'm sure some adapter for the t-case. But as Manic said, a few pics and any numbers from tags and I bet someone on here can identify it.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Options are limitless when it comes to tranny combos

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[CJJP1984]

Original D300 t-case shift lever is threaded and the knob screws on with a jam nut under it. Need to loosen the jam nut under the knob, then screw the knob off.

Amazon replacement t-case knob and jam nut

For the t-handle transmission shifter, there are lots of universal options with insets that have "set screws" that simply tighten down against an unthreaded or damaged shaft. You didn't mention what trans you have, so hard to recommend much.

You can also get an adapter that will put a threaded shift knob onto an unthreaded or damaged shaft. Adapter on Amazon

For my Lokar shifter on my 700R4 auto, it came with a plastic knob that requires a push button in the center. After about 3,000 miles of pressing that plastic center button, the threads on the underside of the plastic ball stripped. So I machined a stainless "mushroom" shaped ball with a button in the center and the right 3/8-16 threads to match the Lokar shaft. Metal on metal now rather than plastic on metal. Along with a jam nut, nice and tight. I also twin-sticked the D300 and got some billet aluminum knobs for it. They are etched with "Front" and "Rear" along with the "H", "N" and "L" markings on them.

View attachment 75736 View attachment 75737 View attachment 75738 View attachment 75739

Billet D300 twin stick knobs

went with the adapter from amazon. appreciate the link

 

[CJJP1984]

To start with, auto or manual? You said you have a Ford V8 engine, so a first assumption would be a tranny that bolts up to a Ford. Then I'm sure some adapter for the t-case. But as Manic said, a few pics and any numbers from tags and I bet someone on here can identify it.

photo from top of tranny. The Google machine tells me the number aligns with

Tremec T176, T177 & T178 Transmissions​

 

[TSB8C]

So the T-176 was the optional 4-speed found in 1980 to 1986 CJ models. The T-177 and T-178 were the J Series versions of this tranny as supplied with the 258 engine, and they have much longer input shafts and bell housing spacers to compensate for the deeper bulkheads of the FSJ Jeeps. The gearing is different as well.

The T-176 was used with a Dana 300 x-fer case. The T-177 and T-178 were used with NP208 x-fer case (in stock/factory setups). The T-176 also has a front bolt pattern of the symmetrical Ford style "butterfly" pattern - roughly 8-1/2" wide by 6-5/16" tall. So an easy adaptation to your Ford 302 engine.

Casting numbers usually found on the case (not shown in your pic) are C-2604203 or C-2604206. For the top cover casting, numbers like C-2604208 are common, which is what your pic seems to show. So seems like you have a T-176 4-speed tranny.

They use a shift lever that is threaded on top so the shift handle/ball is threaded on with a jam nut under it. Here's a pic of the whole shift lever kit.

 

[CJJP1984]

So the T-176 was the optional 4-speed found in 1980 to 1986 CJ models. The T-177 and T-178 were the J Series versions of this tranny as supplied with the 258 engine, and they have much longer input shafts and bell housing spacers to compensate for the deeper bulkheads of the FSJ Jeeps. The gearing is different as well.

The T-176 was used with a Dana 300 x-fer case. The T-177 and T-178 were used with NP208 x-fer case (in stock/factory setups). The T-176 also has a front bolt pattern of the symmetrical Ford style "butterfly" pattern - roughly 8-1/2" wide by 6-5/16" tall. So an easy adaptation to your Ford 302 engine.

Casting numbers usually found on the case (not shown in your pic) are C-2604203 or C-2604206. For the top cover casting, numbers like C-2604208 are common, which is what your pic seems to show. So seems like you have a T-176 4-speed tranny.

They use a shift lever that is threaded on top so the shift handle/ball is threaded on with a jam nut under it. Here's a pic of the whole shift lever kit.

View attachment 75796

TSB8C - appreciate all the info. i went with the just the shaft (hopefully the right one!). everything else looked to be in good shape and I have a replacement knob.....the latest Issue I have now is while I was trying to the get the old knob off the 4wd shifter, the whole top (where the old knob was seized up on the threads) snapped off.....not sure I have the tools or the brain to get under there and replace the shifter. this is like whack-a-mole....one problem soled one more pops up....thanks again!