How tall are you?? I mean really.

How tall are you?? I mean really.
OK One more important piece of information would be wether you think you have enough lift for the rubber you are running?

I was fine with my "33's" (really only 31 1/2") although the rear tire was real close to hitting the back of the wheelwell at the bottom.
Thats compressed of coarse.
When I got my 35's (really 34's at best) I had to get the saw out, front & rear.
 
Need the measurement from the ground to the top of the frame mount that the hockey pucks set on. Yours isn't working out right.:confused:



15.5" to center front hub
25" to top front body mount/ or bottom of tub mtd front by feet

2.5 super lift spring kit..... very very stiff
1" body lift
33" x 12.5 cooper radial tires 1/4" tread left
 
15.5" to center front hub
25" to top front body mount/ or bottom of tub mtd front by feet

2.5 super lift spring kit..... very very stiff
1" body lift
33" x 12.5 cooper radial tires 1/4" tread left

Need the measurement from the ground to the top of the frame mount that the hockey pucks set on. Yours isn't working out right.:confused:


I have a 1" body lift. When I compaired to the other numbers posted there was a strong correlation. If you want just the "spring lift" then take out the ONE INCH for the body mount. The 1" body lift would not change the axle center.

I have WORN tires.... they have 1/4 thread or less. New tires might be in the 3/4" range of thread and could add 1/2 inch to both measurements..... the axel height and body mtd height would go up by 1/2".

Also 33 x 12.5 tires for example, and very common for our CJs vary some in height... Any tire height change could change these numbers too. Tire make/mfg and tire wear can change there numbers by 1" to 1/2".



very few posted so far.... what 5 posted numbers so far or so????

Good luck on your number collection..... my numbers seem correct to me.
 
SOA on stock leafs. 50% tread on 35's.

16.25" and 26.25" (top edge of protruding metal mount). New tires would be 1/2 more??? Built front shackles about 1" longer than stock, rear are TFlex revolvers and also about 1"or so higher than stock.

Front fenders are tube and rear cut out. I only rub in the front at the top of shock when fully compressed and front inner fender toward rear at extreme angles.

I am at about 25lbs pressure.
 
Last edited:
15 1/2" center axle
26 1/2" from body to ground
in front. I have a winch in front.
33"x12.5x15 duratracs new tires
in the back it is:
16 1/2" center axle
27" from body to ground.
22psi in tires last time I checked may have to adjust pressure in front tires will check with chalk and see.
 
18.75" from middle of hub
30.5" from top of body mount "out rigger"

Front: D60F SOA W/SRS & K10 stock springs
Rear: 14b SOA W/ K10 stock springs

May end up lowering it a little bit but with 38" tires and flexy springs.....
 
Last edited:
looks like your SOA got you 4"-4.5".:cool:


SOA on stock leafs. 50% tread on 35's.

16.25" and 26.25" (top edge of protruding metal mount). New tires would be 1/2 more??? Built front shackles about 1" longer than stock, rear are TFlex revolvers and also about 1"or so higher than stock.

Front fenders are tube and rear cut out. I only rub in the front at the top of shock when fully compressed and front inner fender toward rear at extreme angles.

I am at about 25lbs pressure.
 
15" to hub center
24.75" top of mount behind front wheel.
24" top of mount ahead of rear wheel

RE 4.5" lift springs with 1 small leaf removed in front 2 in rear
kit shackles replaced with 3.75" cxc shackles.

I'm guessing I have 3.5" to 4" of lift?
 
I would say4 to 4 1/2". 4" for sure.


15" to hub center
24.75" top of mount behind front wheel.
24" top of mount ahead of rear wheel

RE 4.5" lift springs with 1 small leaf removed in front 2 in rear
kit shackles replaced with 3.75" cxc shackles.

I'm guessing I have 3.5" to 4" of lift?
 
Your probably closer than I am. It really should have 33's under it but I always do things the hard way.;)
 
Nice thread IO! You got us off our arses to do something instead of sitting here web wheeling all day and night :D.

Good info too. :chug:
 
So, what I think I learned from all this. :D

the distance from the center of the axle to the top of the frame outrigger seems to be pretty constant between CJ5s, 7s, and 8s. The wheel size and pressure are not important and the ground to axle center is just to subtract from the ground to outrigger to give the axle center to outrigger.
I do not recall ever seeing a 5" or 7" lift, generally 2,4,6,8 etc. and I don't think the accuracy of these calculations is good enough to really give us closer than whole numbers. I am wondering how much leeway the manufacturer takes with these numbers, maybe greater than 3.5 is a 4 or greater than 2 is 2 1/2. you know what I mean??
So from now on when some one brings the story about "just bought and looks like 8 or 10 " at least", we just say " measure this and measure that and we will know pretty close to what they sold you.":D

So armed with this information, if you are running 35s with a 2" lift and not carving rubber off on the fenders I would like to talk to you.:notworthy:
 
So, what I think I learned from all this. :D

the distance from the center of the axle to the top of the frame outrigger seems to be pretty constant between CJ5s, 7s, and 8s. The wheel size and pressure are not important and the ground to axle center is just to subtract from the ground to outrigger to give the axle center to outrigger.
I do not recall ever seeing a 5" or 7" lift, generally 2,4,6,8 etc. and I don't think the accuracy of these calculations is good enough to really give us closer than whole numbers. I am wondering how much leeway the manufacturer takes with these numbers, maybe greater than 3.5 is a 4 or greater than 2 is 2 1/2. you know what I mean??
So from now on when some one brings the story about "just bought and looks like 8 or 10 " at least", we just say " measure this and measure that and we will know pretty close to what they sold you.":D

So armed with this information, if you are running 35s with a 2" lift and not carving rubber off on the fenders I would like to talk to you.:notworthy:
17-1/2 grnd to hub 29-1/2 grnd to tub. I have 37" SuperSwampers with Smittybuilt add a leafsprings ,MickyT 2" shackles and I added 2" aluminum spacers to make the tire stance more aggressive. NO rubbing! But I altered the fenders and hammered a little on the inside of the wheel well here's a pic.... So you can see the tire is away from the fender and I altered it with the Fender tubing.
 
Just pulled the motor out of mine tonight
33 inch toyo mt 16 1/2 to center of the hub
26 7/8 to the mount on the frame
Jeep has 4 inch lift (new)
 
15" front/ground
15" rear/ground
25" at centerline bodymount TOP... where the bushing goes

31 x 10.50s for now..

PO said it was a 4"

rolling frame only

ROLLER.jpg

mock up with tub

WP_000026.jpg
 
OK I found my tape

18.3 to center of hub.

26.625 to the top of body mount.

2-1/2" OME YJ with M.O.R.E. high shackle reverse. Long shackles too.

This height matched the 4" trailmaster springs with 1" shackle lift. Only now the axle moves up and down. The TrailMaster springs were way too stiff.

Yes I have a 2" body lift to fit the 38.5" Boggers.
 
I would say about 3" of spring.:cool:


OK I found my tape

18.3 to center of hub.

26.625 to the top of body mount.

2-1/2" OME YJ with M.O.R.E. high shackle reverse. Long shackles too.

This height matched the 4" trailmaster springs with 1" shackle lift. Only now the axle moves up and down. The TrailMaster springs were way too stiff.

Yes I have a 2" body lift to fit the 38.5" Boggers.
 
Hey gang!!
Hope to satisfy my curiosity on something and need a little help to do it.

Here is the information.

who: anybody that knows or think they know what amount of suspension lift they have, including those with no lift at all.

what: Two dimensions, setting on reasonably flat level ground.
1) measure the distance from the center of the wheel hub to the ground.
2) This is the hard one, measure from the top of the body mount drivers side front. that is the one near the drivers feet. Measure from the top of the mount not the top of the pad or the bottom of the body.

Why: This is one of the top 10 most popular questions, "how much lift do I have". With enough information it should be possible to establish a relevant base line for "stock".

If you want to throw in your tire size and an evaluation of if you think you have suitable lift, as long as your typing and have a tape measure in your hand and all.:D:D

I have a 1983 CJ7 with 33/12.5-15 tires. I would guess the lift is good for this Jeep, bought it at an auction and it seems it was wheeled a lot.

A) 15.5 inches to center of hub
B) 24.5 inches to top of mount bracket
 
4"+:D


I have a 1983 CJ7 with 33/12.5-15 tires. I would guess the lift is good for this Jeep, bought it at an auction and it seems it was wheeled a lot.

A) 15.5 inches to center of hub
B) 24.5 inches to top of mount bracket
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a donation.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a donation.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$0.00
This donation drive ends in
Back
Top Bottom
AdBlock Detected

I get it, I'm a Jeep owner and ad-block detectors kinda stink but ads are needed on this site. This is a CJ site, all the ads are set for autos (some times others get through.) I cannot make them just for Jeeps but I try.

Please allow ads as they help keep this site running by offsetting the costs of software and server fees.
Clicking on No Thanks will temporarily disable this message.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks