Headlight switch - repair or replace?

Headlight switch - repair or replace?

JeepCJ5

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Location
El Paso, TX
Vehicle(s)
'81 CJ5 - 258, D300, AMC20, D30
My dash lights haven't worked since I got my jeep in November. I assumed it was the famous ground issue and put that on my list of stuff to do.

The other day, I saw them come on and realized there is one exact spot on the dimmer switch where they will stay on. If I turn the wiper in either direction, they go off.

I see that I can get a replacement switch for around $20, but I know the replacement stuff is often crappy.

I haven't been able to get the knob off to take the switch out. It might just need a cleaning and a wiper adjustment. Have any of you guys dealt with this?
 
There is a button on the back of the headlight switch housing. Pull the switch out, then press the button and pull the knob out. The CJ dashboard has a poor ground thru the bolts that hold it on. On the negative terminal for the battery, there should be one wire going to the engine block and another to the firewall. You could attach a #10 wire from the backside of the firewall ground connection to the mount for the gauge cluster and trash those stamped steel nuts that hold the cluster on. Using those external tooth lockwashers for a better ground connection. This should eliminate any question of a poor ground circuit for the dash.
 
Thanks Torx,

Earlier, I did run a temp wire directly from the negative terminal and tried grounding it in several different locations on the dash, but it had no effect on my dash light problem.

Since I can now get them on every time when I turn the dimmer to that one spot, I am convinced it is the switch. I still plan on running a dedicated ground wire - just haven't gotten to that yet.

Thanks for the tip on removing the switch - I'll give that a try.
 
I have a similar problem with mine accept that the dead spot is small. But growing. I have a switch replacement on my to do list. But will probably wait until I replace my entire dash and tackle all of the gauges.
 
You could spray the heck out of the switch with contact cleaner while working the dimmer back and fourth. I think we usually turn the dimmer up to "give me full power Scotty" and leave it there rarely exercising it so electrical crud builds up there.

If it were me I'd replace the switch. You might need to press the release button really hard and run the switch in and out a few times before it releases. Be careful, the new switch doesn't come with a new switch shaft. When you reinstall the switch shaft you might need to really stab it in semi hard to get it to seat properly. I had a "blinking" headlight situation a few months ago. Found that the switch was actually hot. Was going to re-place the wiring (still going to do that). Was at Willys Works to late one winter night, rather than braving a blinking head light situation going home on a black dark night on a whim I replaced the light switch right there in the parking lot, it took all of ten minutes, the hardest part is removing the nut on the front. It's been perfect ever since. The new switch doesn't heat up at all now.
 
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My new switch came today. Thanks for the button explanation. I probably would have never figured that out. It was a quick swap and works perfectly. All is well with my dash lights now.
 
May want to consider using relays on those headlight circuits if you haven't already. Sure saves the switches.
 
Relays are probably the safest way to go. But I can't help but wonder, will the relay last for the same 40 years my first headlight switch did? Is the added complication really worth it in the end? Also, isn't a properly designed headlight switch a sort of relay in itself?
 
The improvement in the amount of consistent light output was enough reason for me to add relays. My lights would dim as I let off the accelerator. There are a lot of deer in my area and driving home at night was too dark. Having the headlights stay at their brightest helped. Then of course upgrading to h4s was even better. I am glad I did the relays.
 
Hmmmm - Adding the relays must have also cured another problem, neither of my CJ's would react to engine RPM's. They were relatively new models so the voltage regulator took care of the voltage. I honestly can't remember how the lights reacted in my grandfathers Flat Fender Willys, or the CJ5 or the Pick-up, they were all 6 volt systems so they might have had the dimming light thing.

It seems to me that the more complicated the system = more wires = more things to go wrong. I'm not saying that relays are not gods gift to electrical issiues, but I am a solid believer in the K.I.S.S. system, at least where my CJ is concerned.
 
I was feeling the same thing - my switch lasted 30ish years and only the wiper part died on mine. I'm sure relays are a good idea, but I probably wont do that much night driving and haven't noticed any change in brightness. I'll keep it in the back of my mind though.
 

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