Fuel Gauge Problems
JeffP
Senior Jeeper
- Posts
- 536
- Thanks
- 1
- Location
- Peoria, AZ
- Vehicle(s)
- '75 CJ5, 304, T18, D20, D44s w/3.73 1974 CJ5, 304, 4 spd., Dana axles 3.73 gears. 1973 CJ5, 258 I6, T18, Dana 20, Dana axles 4.27 gears. 1972 CJ5, 304, 4 Spd, Dana 20, 4.27 gears. 1976 CJ5, 304, T150. 1976 CJ5, 304, T150, J20 w/4.10 gears. 69 CJ5 Hurricane 4 cyl, 4spd all original! ‘53/‘54 M38a1 100% original but also 100% apart! Low 3 digit Vin! One of the very first m38a1s!
For those having fuel gauge issues here are some facts.
Both the gauge and sending unit resistance range needs to match. (Ohms) Zero to low ohms for full, high resistance for empty.
Both the gauge and tank need to be grounded with at least 14 awg wire! If your new gauge reads full all the time, it’s either a bad ground on the tank body or bad ground on the gauge. Or... the sending unit wire is shorted to ground somewhere.
Removing the tank is a pain in the rear so when replacing a sending unit, test it with the gauge before installing it in the tank!
Both the gauge and sending unit resistance range needs to match. (Ohms) Zero to low ohms for full, high resistance for empty.
Both the gauge and tank need to be grounded with at least 14 awg wire! If your new gauge reads full all the time, it’s either a bad ground on the tank body or bad ground on the gauge. Or... the sending unit wire is shorted to ground somewhere.
Removing the tank is a pain in the rear so when replacing a sending unit, test it with the gauge before installing it in the tank!