Diff Flat Towing Advice

Differentials
Diff Flat Towing Advice

Jamesiam220

Jeeper
Posts
8
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0
Location
Missouri
Vehicle(s)
‘80 CJ7, AMC 304, TH400, Dana 20 twin stick
Hello all
I am a brand new member to this forum and look forward to interacting with fellow CJ owners.

I recently purchased a 1980 CJ7 (specs below)

80 CJ7 AMC 304 (5.0 V8) TH400 trans. Dana 20 transfer case with twin stick. Full body armor, sliders, high front fenders, custom built front and rear bumpers, new winch, new top/tonneau cover (new rails) LED headlights/tail lights. Rust free YJ lower half doors and uppers with latches. New black rock steel wheels and new cooper 35s.

Engine was re sealed. New oil pump, Double roller timing chain, Comp RV cam, new lifters, rebuilt heads, new water pump, edelbrock performance intake, and new edelbrock 650 Carb. HEI ignition, MSD distributor gears. New Holley red fuel pump, new aluminum radiator with electric fans.

I have a couple of questions:

1). Does anyone have the shift pattern for the twin stick transfer case?

2). I am preparing to flat tow this vehicle behind a converted school bus. What do I need to do regarding the drivetrain, specifically transmission, differential, and front wheel locking hubs prior to towing?

Thanks in advance for your help


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Solution
Shift pattern is lever closest to you is the rear axle with forward for low and back for high, and the lever to the right is the front axle with forward for low and rear for high. So 2L would be left lever forward and right lever centered. 2H would be left lever back and right lever centered. 4L would be both levers forward. 4H would be both levers back. And you have the option for front wheel drive by putting the left lever centered (rear output disengaged) and using only the right lever to put the front axle in either H or L. NOTE: Don't try one axle in H while the other is in L.

In terms of flat towing with the Dana20, lock the front hubs, turn the ignition just enough to unlock the steering wheel, put the transmission in first gear...
Welcome ! With a Jeep like that we want some pictures. 415F122F-90BA-4026-8A69-C1388BEFAAC3.jpeg
 
Shift pattern is lever closest to you is the rear axle with forward for low and back for high, and the lever to the right is the front axle with forward for low and rear for high. So 2L would be left lever forward and right lever centered. 2H would be left lever back and right lever centered. 4L would be both levers forward. 4H would be both levers back. And you have the option for front wheel drive by putting the left lever centered (rear output disengaged) and using only the right lever to put the front axle in either H or L. NOTE: Don't try one axle in H while the other is in L.

In terms of flat towing with the Dana 20, lock the front hubs, turn the ignition just enough to unlock the steering wheel, put the transmission in first gear (or PARK for an auto) to keep it from turning, put the transfer case in neutral (both levers centered), and you're good to go. The reason the front hubs must be locked is that the rear output shaft of the TC will be spinning with the rear driveshaft, but with the case in neutral, nothing else will be turning to throw oil up to the bearings for the output shaft. With the front hubs locked, the front output shaft and gears, which are under the oil level, will be spinning to lubricate the rest of the case. Now if you are planning to tow longer distances (over 300 miles) I'd then unlock the front hubs and drop the rear drive shaft to prevent the gears in the transfer case from spinning at all and starving for oil due to no input drive from the transmission. But for trips under 300 miles, should be OK. You could also consider installing a hub conversion on the rear axle so you can unlock them (like the front axle has) if lots of towing over longer distances at highway speeds is in your plans.
 
Solution
I apologize for the delayed response. Ice storm here in Michigan slowed me down for a couple of days. I have managed to reinforce the factory tow bar mount and run the trailer wires on the CJ. Could you please tell me more about the rear axle hub conversion kit. That sounds much more convenient for the amount of travel/towing I’m anticipating. Also when you say lock or unlock the front hubs I’m a little confused. My hubs say 2 and 4. I apologize for my ignorance


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On the front hubs, "2" is unlocked, meaning the front wheels are no longer engaged and you are now in 2-wheel drive (rear wheels only). "4" locks or engages the front hubs and now you are in 4 wheel drive.

For the rear locking hubs on an AMC20 axles, Warn used to make a kit. It was a conversion kit to use a full floating axle with hubs and lockouts like the front has. They sold the plans, tools, rights, etc to:

Randy's Ring & Pinion
10411 Airport Road
Everett, WA 98201
Ph: 800-292-1031

Don't know if they still make/sell that kit or not. More info: Warn Full Floater kit
 
Can you post a closeup of the front bumper…

That mini stinger looks quite nice and can be used as a tie down point for a tow strap.
 
It’s attached to a heavy duty bumper, I figured. Thank you.
 
Ok. Finally getting ready to hit the road. Was delayed due to front end issues that were preventing the Jeep to be towed (negative caster wouldn’t all it to track properly). Now that has been resolved we should be all good. I’ve already disconnected the rear drive shaft. Will place the front hubs in 2 and the transfer case in 4H. Is this correct?

Also been searching high and low for a conversion kit to allow the rear hubs to be locked and unlocked. Apparently Warn used to make a kit like this but it was discontinued in 2005 when Randy’s bought the axle division. Does anyone know of another manufacturer that makes a similar kit?

Thanks again


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Also, for short distance driving I’ve simply lock the front hubs in 4H essentially creating a temporary front wheel drive vehicle. Any issues with that?


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Close, but not exactly.

For long distance, unlock front hubs and remove rear drive shaft. It doesn't matter what gear the transfer case is in as it will not be turned by any drive shaft.

For short distance, lock front hubs and put the transfer case in NEUTRAL because you need to have the front drive shaft turning to slosh oil in the transfercase.

I always place a manual trans in neutral just for safety in both scenarios but since you have a TH400 park or neutral will work.
 

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