Clutch Linkage: Release rod and adjuster problems

[Jslampe]

If you’ve been following at home, I had a couple problems with my clutch linkage (driver side pivot bracket sheared off the bolts). Upon review of the linkage, bell crank, etc., it looked pretty rough so I ordered a whole new kit for $70. (Before you ask, no I didn’t get the Heim upgrade. Will eventually. Need several other parts in the original kit.)

http://repairguide.autozone.com/zne...00c152/80/04/b2/23/large/0900c1528004b223.gif

The problem I’m having now, is with the Release Rod/Adjuster and/or the Throwout Lever. Even at their shortest setting, the Release Rod + Adjuster are far too long. When I placed them in the the Throwout bracket, the RR+Adj was a solid 1 inch too long creating a healthy gap between the Inner Support Bracket and the transmission casing (where the bolts go).

Illustrations to (maybe help):
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Z4zEVPMv9WVXfwSJgPLxt7pn5nb47lhf?usp=sharing

The most confusing part is comparing the old Release Rod and Adjuster withe new one… They’re the EXACT same size as the new one! WTF am I doing wrong?

Furthermore, Throwout Lever won’t move by hand like I’d assumed it would’ve. I know the Transmission is fine-ish. When the linkage broke I was able to jimmy-rig a fix with a piece of wood and drive it up the driveway into the garage.

I feel like an idiot, but there’s got to be something I’m missing. I’M SO CLOSE

 

[jp360cj]

Bolt the bracket to the transmission before you try to put the adjuster rod into the fork. The adjuster should adjust at both ends, so if you bottomed out 1 side, adjust the other side in. The shift fork should have a little movement by hand, but not much. You are pushing against some pretty strong springs on the pressure plate.

 

[Jslampe]

Super helpful context on the plates. That makes sense, but the fork will not budge... It could be a matter of leverage so I'll give it a go, again, when I get home.

Bolt the bracket to the transmission before you try to put the adjuster rod into the fork. The adjuster should adjust at both ends, so if you bottomed out 1 side, adjust the other side in.

I've shortened it at both ends. Neither the top portion (which goes into the bellcrank bracket) or the bottom portion (which goes into throwout lever) will shorten anymore. Again, will try again when I get home.

Wondering if I'm doing these the wrong order?

As I see it, there’s 4 points of contact:
1. The outer pivot bracket into the bell crank
2. The driver’s side part of the bellcrank that connects to the linkage.
3. The inner pivot bracket into the bell crank (currently not bolted in)
4. The adjuster’s physical point of contact into the throwout lever’s bracket.

I started with the #1, then #2, and now can’t get #3 or #4. Maybe I should start in reverse order?

 

[jp360cj]

Super helpful context on the plates. That makes sense, but the fork will not budge... It could be a matter of leverage so I'll give it a go, again, when I get home.



I've shortened it at both ends. Neither the top portion (which goes into the bellcrank bracket) or the bottom portion (which goes into throwout lever) will shorten anymore. Again, will try again when I get home.

Wondering if I'm doing these the wrong order?

As I see it, there’s 4 points of contact:
1. The outer pivot bracket into the bell crank
2. The driver’s side part of the bellcrank that connects to the linkage.
3. The inner pivot bracket into the bell crank (currently not bolted in)
4. The adjuster’s physical point of contact into the throwout lever’s bracket.

I started with the #1, then #2, and now can’t get #3 or #4. Maybe I should start in reverse order?

It shouldn't matter which end of the bellcrank you bolt on first. I just did this yesterday and put both brackets on the bellcrank, then bolted the clutch pedal side in because it had studs and was easiest. Then I bolted the bellhousing side, then the adjuster.

Looking at your sketch, are the bellhousing bolts too far to the rear or too far up/down/left right? Do you have a body lift or t-case drop?

 

[Jslampe]

Looking at your sketch, are the bellhousing bolts too far to the rear or too far up/down/left right? Do you have a body lift or t-case drop?

Yeah, that sketch may be misleading as the bellhousing bolts run passenger-to-driver side. Right now, they're too far to the left (i.e. passenger side). Need them to come more to the driver side.

No body lift and I'm fairly certain there's no transfer case drop on it.

I'd also add that, when I did have the bellcrank put on, it was level.

 

[Jslampe]

I retract that statement. It's not passenger-side to driver-side. It's what JP360jeep said. The gap is rear-to-front, with the bracket missing the bellhousing holes by one inch. Taking pictures. Will report back soon.

Man, I wish there was an easier way to upload pictures from my phone in this forum.

 

[jp360cj]

Man, I wish there was an easier way to upload pictures from my phone in this forum.

Download the Tapatalk app. You can easily upload pictures from your phone with it.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jslampe]

Will do.

Quick update: I think I figured out the problem. The outer (driver’s side) support pivot bracket is back about an inch farther back (towards rear) than it should be. I think this is due to an accident it apparently had in the late 80s (the front left fender had “hit a fence at an odd angle”). This has created a slight angle “\” from the outer to inner bracket and would explain why the pivot bracket bolts heard off 20-years later.

QUESTION: What’s the best way to shore up/shim this gap? 3-4 washers? What type of washer should I use (e.g. fender? Flat? Rubber?)? That area will undergo some serious himming and hawing with the roads leading to my house.