Steering Another loose-*** steering post

Steering Another loose-*** steering post

RI CJ5

Jeeper
Posts
12
Thanks
1
Location
North Kingstown, RI, USA
Vehicle(s)
1980 CJ5 360. 4" lift 33" Coopers.
So I just bought a 1980 CJ5. 360, 4" lift, 33's. PO did a frame off resto. Beautiful work. Everything is new and tight and clean. But the thing wanders all over the road. I have been searching the web for days but outside of " That's just the way they drive" {which is true to a point, but I had an '85 with 33's and a 3" lift and it wasn't nearly as bad} and "Mine drives nice at 90mph on the highway" which sound like a dream, there is nothing I can see to do. Steering box has no play although I cant adj due to stripped allen nut. So, besides adding a steering stabilizer, which will help but not cure. I can see the springs flex side to side when I turn wheel. Whole body shifts, but don't want to crank shackles any tighter and all tie rod ends are tight. So, are there any other ideas out there?
Thanks in advance, Johnny
 
Solution
Well, like I said, the toe needed a bit of correction. In about 1/2" or so to about 1/8". The big problem was that the PO, in 'Tightening' the steering box, cranked it all the way down and it was bound up. With one guy on the wheel back and forth, and another on the steering box adjustment screw, the broke loose the screw and backed it out 2 turns or so. the worm gear was binding. That adjustment screw is a small turn, not keep turning until it's tight. Much better now, although i'll still need to tweak it once the weather gets better.
Now on to the Carb. used almost 1/2 a tank going 35 miles round trip! Seems a bit rich!
Steering Another loose-*** steering post
You know, thinking about this I hate just trying random things to see how it drives. It's just time consuming and could get expensive.
I believe you really need to know where your alignment is so anyway you can get it on an alignment rack will save money and time.
I know it's not street legal so can you rent, borrow or make some way to trailer, flat tow or dolly the CJ? What about just have someone follow right behind you?
Having a base line will most likely get you going quicker.
Your CJ sounds great and we would really like to get it safe and drive able. :chug:
 
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That's unfortunate about the shop but understandable.
Those are some serious wedge blocks. Can you take one pic from the front at dif level showing all your steering linkages? The best setup is to have your drag link and tie rod as parallel as possible. This helps with bump steer.
This a pic of perfect steering geom. but perfect is not completely necessary.
20230318_110840.jpg


To check castor all you need is an inexpensive angle finder.
6A511_AS03.jpg
Try to check on a flat surface. Since most garage floors are sloped for liquid drainage, be sure to measure the floor slope and adjust accordingly.
Here is a great thread on checking castor.
 
You can easily measure caster like this. Ask the PO if he still has the sway bar and try it out.
 

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What is the amount of lift? Those wedges and the amount of drop in the pitman arm look like a lot. The pics show what appear to be newer poly shackle bushings, so that's good. Also noticed the steering box brace. Some help there. With the angle of your diff as a result of the spring wedges, do you have the x-fer case dropped at all? Too much angle at the rear of the x-fer case and then lesser angle on the axle is not good. And with a CJ5 as opposed to a CJ7, that rear drive shaft has probably got some serious stress on it unless steps have been taken to address it (double cardan joint, x-fer case drop kit, etc).

I agree with others - alignment needs to be verified and then corrected if/where needed using shims or ball joint bushings.
 
What is the amount of lift? Those wedges and the amount of drop in the pitman arm look like a lot. The pics show what appear to be newer poly shackle bushings, so that's good. Also noticed the steering box brace. Some help there. With the angle of your diff as a result of the spring wedges, do you have the x-fer case dropped at all? Too much angle at the rear of the x-fer case and then lesser angle on the axle is not good. And with a CJ5 as opposed to a CJ7, that rear drive shaft has probably got some serious stress on it unless steps have been taken to address it (double cardan joint, x-fer case drop kit, etc).

I agree with others - alignment needs to be verified and then corrected if/where needed using shims or ball joint bushings.
^+1 on the wedges...

Those look like they're twice as thick as they should be for that amount of lift
 
^+1 on the wedges...

Those look like they're twice as thick as they should be for that amount of lift
They look to be 3 times the thickness of mine.
 
Another thing I noticed in the pics is the body lift also. I see three "pucks" about an inch each and a fiberglass tub. I also noticed what looks to be a homemade bracket made of angle iron where the one body mount is attached. How is the rest of the tub mounted? Perhaps some of your flexing when turning the wheel is coming from a combination of these.
 
So I just bought a 1980 CJ5. 360, 4" lift, 33's. PO did a frame off resto. Beautiful work. Everything is new and tight and clean. But the thing wanders all over the road. I have been searching the web for days but outside of " That's just the way they drive" {which is true to a point, but I had an '85 with 33's and a 3" lift and it wasn't nearly as bad} and "Mine drives nice at 90mph on the highway" which sound like a dream, there is nothing I can see to do. Steering box has no play although I cant adj due to stripped allen nut. So, besides adding a steering stabilizer, which will help but not cure. I can see the springs flex side to side when I turn wheel. Whole body shifts, but don't want to crank shackles any tighter and all tie rod ends are tight. So, are there any other ideas out there?
Thanks in advance, Johnny
Just for grins I pasted your question into AI ChatGPT. I wanted to see how smart it's getting. Interesting reply and scary accurate...

 
TS, did you work at a service station…
 
TSB8C, it’s just some well intentioned mild sarcasm from me. Kudos to you because you can pinpoint hidden issues easily from imagery.
 
All those inherent issues associated with lift spring kits are next to impossible to overcome.

There are much better alternatives and options, however, like shaving off (not literally) protrusions from the undercarriage that includes clocking transfer case horizontal, a well designed skid plate, increasing droop length, or getting larger tires. You combine all these and you have great off-road performance as well as on-road manners and amazing stance and looks.
 
Or keep your spring lift kit and reclock axle perches AND inner knuckles.
 
I must be blind because I missed seeing that also
TSB8C, it’s just some well intentioned mild sarcasm from me. Kudos to you because you can pinpoint hidden issues easily from imagery.
 
So, got it to an off road alignment shop. My garage toe adj was actually good. They were able to Crack loose the adjustment screw on steering box which was buried, turned it out a few turns and it was vastly improved! Now I just need to tweak it to as close to perfect as I can get a lifted 43 yo jeep! Thanks for all the help gents!!
 
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So, got it to an off road alignment shop. My garage toe adj was actually good. They were able to Crack loose the adjustment screw on steering box which was buried, turned it out a few turns and it was vastly improved! Now I just need to tweak it to as close to perfect as I can get a lifted 43 yo jeep! Thanks for all the help gents!!
:tu: Don't keep us in suspense... What was off / wrong? What were your initial readings and what was done as well as what were your final readings?
This information could be helpful for others at a later date.
 

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