Build Thread 79 CJ7 "They’re coming to take me away aha"

[mriplaybass]

Since we were at it, we did a steering flip on the linkage. I was going to borrow the reamer, and ream out the holes, but a few members also suggested the tapered bushings. It seemed that there was a less room for error this way, so I drilled out the knuckles, installed the bushings and tack welded them on the top. I then ground the bottom flush with the knuckle arm and tightened the castle nuts.
I also had to make a taller bracket for the steering damper to clear the flipped steering linkage.

I ran a bolt thru a socket to hold the bushing in place during welding.




Bushing ground flush from the bottom.



Taller steering damper bracket






The original bracket had only 1 U bolt holding it to the axle. When the steering wheel was turned quickly, there was some deflection due to the additional leverage, so I drilled it out and installed a second U bolt. Now it is steady as a rock.



Linkage flipped









With the 4” lift, it was necessary to make a longer driveshaft. I cut the ends off an old shaft the I had made a while back, and made the new driveshaft. Problem is, with the 4” lift, the front transfer case pinion is up higher, and once the caster angle is correct for the front axles, the driveshaft, is already at a 15° slope while sitting on level ground. Once I jacked up one wheel to simulate maximum articulation, the slope was nearly 22°, and the U joint binds at the transfer case.


I found this by pure coincidence since I was not even looking for U joints at the time.



It’s a little hard to tell, but the bearing caps are offset by 1/4”. According to the manufacturer, this offset allows for up to a 40° slope. I believe it! I could almost put the driveshaft end on the ground, and it still would not bind at the transfer case. I was told that this is definitely not to be used on the highway because, due to the offset, there would definitely be some vibration.

We went on our maiden 2019 ride yesterday, and I ran with the driveshaft engaged. I felt no vibration until over 30mph. I can live with that!

 

[Posi]

You both added some very useful upgrades this winter/spring that will serve you well. Well done!

 

[caveman]

I believe that U joint came from Tom Woods. I had to use one when I first built my rig until it settled down.

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[mriplaybass]

Good eye. That's exactly where it came from. Apparently, there are Toyota joints that will do the same thing, but are very prone to breaking. From what I have read, this is more or less the same joint on steroids. As a matter of fact, Tom Woods guarantee states that if the joint fails and damages your driveshaft, they will replace the driveshaft.

I would have preferred cutting the knuckles loose, rotating them and rewelding them to get correct geometry for everything, but time is running short before we head to Moab this year.

 

[caveman]

I don't blame you for cutting a corner to get ready. I ran that U joint for a couple of years and even though they said it would vibrate, I never noticed it over the rest of the vibrations in my rig.

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[mriplaybass]

Ya, I'm thinking maybe next year doing it the right way, and cutting the knuckles loose and rotating them so I can go back to a regular U joint. The inner seal has developed a small leak, but if I have to take things apart that far to replace the seal, the wife and I agree, chromoly axles, and rotating the knuckles. Do it all at once. That way the front is ready to accept 35" tires if that's the route we choose to go when the 33's wear out.