Default Re: Staying in 2nd gear 

Old 07-26-2018, 09:03 AM   #11
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I know nothing about the SR4, but when I pulled the T5 for a T19, I was pleased to learn that including the Novak adapter they were the same length so no need to move cross member or lengthen/shorten drive shafts

 

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Default Re: Staying in 2nd gear 

Old 07-26-2018, 09:26 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hole View Post
I know nothing about the SR4, but when I pulled the T5 for a T19, I was pleased to learn that including the Novak adapter they were the same length so no need to move cross member or lengthen/shorten drive shafts
The SR4 uses a GM bolt pattern so if I stay with a GM tranny the fewer adapters I will have to use, which is less expensive and less things to go wrong. I am a firm believer in the KISS methodology.

 

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Default Re: Staying in 2nd gear 

Old 07-26-2018, 11:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super8mm View Post
A follow up, I called Novak and they told me that the SM420 I would have to move rear tranny/trans mount back as it is longer. I asked about the AX15 5 spd and they said it is way to long.

Best deal is the SM465 about the only thing needed fro the engine to tranny side is to get the hole in the bell housing machined out or get one of their bell housings but I would still have to adapt the tranny to the transfer case.
I thought the Iron Duke used the same engine bolt pattern as a SBC? If that's the case, then all you need to bolt a SM465 to your engine is the stock SM465 SBC bell housing.

Also, according to Novak's website, the 420 is actually shorter than the 465, but the 465 w/D300 adapter is the same length as the SR4.

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Originally Posted by Super8mm View Post
The SR4 uses a GM bolt pattern so if I stay with a GM tranny the fewer adapters I will have to use, which is less expensive and less things to go wrong. I am a firm believer in the KISS methodology.
I swapped in a T18, but for a Chevy engine, I would definitely stick to a Chevy transmission. No need to complicate things and add unnecessary expense. Adapt to your D300 and be done.

 

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Default Re: Staying in 2nd gear 

Old 07-26-2018, 11:22 AM   #14
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Thanks jp360cj, We talked about several different transmission setups so it maybe the 420 is shorter but it would still require more work to get it to fit right.

Yes the 4 cyl uses a SBC and all with bolt up except the throat on the Tranny opening has to be opened up for the 465. Then with their adaptor to the 300 the drive line will be the same length. One other thing is what clutch to use, that depends on the splines on the tranny as there were 3 different ones used.

If the cards fall right I may not have to change the clutch as I suspect when they put the crate motor in about 5K miles ago they probable did the clutch and throwout bearing too.

Now to start watching Craigslist weekly, today there are 4 listed, all have shift levers and 2 also have bell housings. hmmmm with bell housing could save a step. all 4 are priced between $150 and $200.

 

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Default Re: Staying in 2nd gear 

Old 07-26-2018, 11:44 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Super8mm View Post
Thanks jp360cj, We talked about several different transmission setups so it maybe the 420 is shorter but it would still require more work to get it to fit right.
Yeah, either way, the 420 will be more will more work and expense with the driveshaft. If you were planning on a lot of lift (like an SOA), then the shorter length could be beneficial. But otherwise, the 465 will be the better fit/easier swap.

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Originally Posted by Super8mm View Post
Yes the 4 cyl uses a SBC and all with bolt up except the throat on the Tranny opening has to be opened up for the 465. Then with their adaptor to the 300 the drive line will be the same length.
But the transmission has nothing to do with the bolt pattern on then engine. If the engine side of the bell housing is the same, then no need to machine your bellhousing. Just get a stock chevy bellhousing that fits the 465. You may even get the right bellhousing with the transmission.

 

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Default Re: Staying in 2nd gear 

Old 07-26-2018, 12:02 PM   #16
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While this may not apply to you, I offer it anyway.

When I purchased my CJ7 it would jump out of 2nd gear with out warning either when moving in slow traffic or when decelerating down. As it turned out the PO had replaced the shifter boot but not centered it. I was forward and to one side so that when i let off the gas in second gear the natural movement of the engine was enough to bump the shifter against the boot and knock it out of gear. Since it was the metal shifter was hitting rubber ever so lightly it made no noise.

To solve this problem all I had to do was reposition the boot to eliminate the contact....

It is a simple test - remove the screws that hold the boot to the floor and slide up the shifter handle. Then go for a drive...

For what it is worth.

 

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Default Re: Staying in 2nd gear 

Old 07-26-2018, 01:04 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp360cj View Post
Yeah, either way, the 420 will be more will more work and expense with the driveshaft. If you were planning on a lot of lift (like an SOA), then the shorter length could be beneficial. But otherwise, the 465 will be the better fit/easier swap.
But the transmission has nothing to do with the bolt pattern on then engine. If the engine side of the bell housing is the same, then no need to machine your bellhousing. Just get a stock chevy bellhousing that fits the 465. You may even get the right bellhousing with the transmission.
Thanks, I wont be lifting as I will be towing it behind my motor home and with 30" tires it is plenty high for running around pastures and the the like, no serious hard core stuff. well most of the time

the bell housing to engine bolt pattern was only used on 84-93 S-10. those will be a direct fit but the one on mine would have to be opened up.

I sent a not to some on craigs list that had bell housings still attached so If I get one of those maybe I can swap bell housing to a salvage yard for a S-10?? Time Will tell how it works out.

 

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Default Re: Staying in 2nd gear 

Old 07-26-2018, 01:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RattleTrap View Post
While this may not apply to you, I offer it anyway.

When I purchased my CJ7 it would jump out of 2nd gear with out warning either when moving in slow traffic or when decelerating down. As it turned out the PO had replaced the shifter boot but not centered it. I was forward and to one side so that when i let off the gas in second gear the natural movement of the engine was enough to bump the shifter against the boot and knock it out of gear. Since it was the metal shifter was hitting rubber ever so lightly it made no noise.

To solve this problem all I had to do was reposition the boot to eliminate the contact....

It is a simple test - remove the screws that hold the boot to the floor and slide up the shifter handle. Then go for a drive...

For what it is worth.
Thanks, When I got the jeep it was doing this but I think most of the time it is when I downshift to 2nd it will jump out or not want to go in at all. that boot was torn in half horizontally so that would not be the problem this time.

 

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Default Re: Staying in 2nd gear 

Old 07-26-2018, 02:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super8mm View Post
the bell housing to engine bolt pattern was only used on 84-93 S-10. those will be a direct fit but the one on mine would have to be opened up.

I sent a not to some on craigs list that had bell housings still attached so If I get one of those maybe I can swap bell housing to a salvage yard for a S-10?? Time Will tell how it works out.
So the Iron duke in the CJ doesn't have the SBC pattern? Everything I've ever read says they are the same.

 

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Default Re: Staying in 2nd gear 

Old 07-26-2018, 02:21 PM   #20
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So the Iron duke in the CJ doesn't have the SBC pattern? Everything I've ever read says they are the same.
The bolt pattern is the same for Transmission to bell housing but they said the bell housing to block is different. as 2 of the transmission come will bell housings that is what I was hoping for, they even have the throwout bearing arms.

They also said my bell housing should have a 4-11/16 hold but it will need to be opened up to 5.000 to accept the SM465. this info comes from novak's page

 

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