Default 350 chevy T4 clutch question 

Old 08-26-2012, 08:31 PM   #1
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so im in the middle of doing my sbc conversion. im mating it to a t4. i replaced to iron duke 2.5. today we made the motor mounts. im having trouble figuring out the clutch situation. i put on a 153 tooth flywheel. i have a clutch and pressure plate off of a camero my buddy gave me. the problem is when i measure everything out, the fingers that the throwout bearing push on are 1/4' longer than the 2.5 duke clutch. so if i bolt it together it will ride on the bearing all the time and probably have the clutch slightly disengaged. i cant find any info on pressure plate thickness or if some are "thinner". does anyone have any idea what model of car i need to order the clutch for to make it work?


 

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Default Re: 350 chevy T4 clutch question 

Old 08-27-2012, 07:08 AM   #2
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That motor is going to churn your tranny into a pile of metal chips the first time to smash the go pedal.

 

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Default Re: 350 chevy T4 clutch question 

Old 08-27-2012, 07:25 AM   #3
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Before you get any more time or money into your build, you might want to look for another trans. The T4 &5's are quite weak

 

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Default Re: 350 chevy T4 clutch question 

Old 08-27-2012, 12:00 PM   #4
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Vehicle(s): 1980 Cj5, 350 chevy (i built myself), T176, Dana 300, stock narrow trac 3.54 axles, locked in the rear, power steering, power brakes, tilt steering, Warn lockouts, 31x10.50x15 AT's, hi lift jack mounted on the front, bed lined tub, firestick cb setup, 5 in hella lights, NO RUST!!
 
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i know they are weak. i researched this build for almost a year now. i have a sm465 and bellhousing waiting in my shed out back. i dont have the money to get the transfer case adapter. this will only be together for a couple monthes until the check book regroups and i get the adapter. then after the tranny it will be one piece axles. lol

 

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Default Re: 350 chevy T4 clutch question 

Old 08-27-2012, 01:09 PM   #5
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Just have to adjust the linkage to get the freeplay you need. You may need to shorten both the lower rod (parallel to ground) and the upper rod (vertical to ground; runs up to pedal). Shoot for 1/4 to 3/8 between the throw out bearing and diaphragm.

When I did my Ford swap I think I had to shorten the solid portion that actually pushes on the clutch fork. Just cut some out if needed and weld back together.

I ended up with some serious pedal pressure with the mechanical linkage. Im sure part of this was due to the HP clutch Im running, but I think the main problem was the change in geometry. I messed around with it for a few weeks before installing a hydro clutch.
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Default Re: 350 chevy T4 clutch question 

Old 08-28-2012, 04:01 AM   #6
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i already have the hydrolic clutch setup. so the arm is all the way back. i ordered a clutch yesturday and it will be in today to see if it will work. its out of a chevy 2 with a 327. i can return it if its not right. they had the option for raised diaphram and short. so i ordered the short to see if its differnt than what i have. i will post the results and part numbers if it works.

 

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Default Re: 350 chevy T4 clutch question 

Old 08-30-2012, 12:54 AM   #7
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Vehicle(s): 1980 Cj5, 350 chevy (i built myself), T176, Dana 300, stock narrow trac 3.54 axles, locked in the rear, power steering, power brakes, tilt steering, Warn lockouts, 31x10.50x15 AT's, hi lift jack mounted on the front, bed lined tub, firestick cb setup, 5 in hella lights, NO RUST!!
 
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LUK 04-002 is the clutch kit that works. its for the 153 tooth chevy flywheel (small diameter) im not sure what year of car but its a clutch out of a chevy 2 with a 327.

 

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