Misc. Disc Brake problem

Misc. Disc Brake problem

bbcj576

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Missouri
Vehicle(s)
76 CJ5
I just picked up a 76 CJ5 that came with some kind of bad attempt to put disc brakes on the front and I am not sure what is the correct approach to take.
I have seen vids of people doing the disc brakes kits, etc..., but I do not really want to spend $700 to fix this problem if I don't have to.
The CJ came with studs welded in the rotor and the weld job was insanely crappy and I assume they just ended up warping the rotors.
Does the Dana 30 secure the hub to the spindle first then the rotor? Or the studs are in the rotor and then the hub?
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated as it has baffled quite a few parts supply places and 4x4 shops.
 

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Solution
That's CJ 7 factory set up by the looks of it. As far as the welded studs I did the same thing to mine. The studs press into the rotor and then everything is assembled from there. Problem is new Chinese made rotors (yes they are all Chinese) are designed with larger holes as they fit other applications that slip over the studs. So when you get new studs the holes are to large to hold them and they fall out.

Here's my 85 Dana 30 front 7f4a6b4cfbd1d6e6ef8cae41850c32fe.jpg

Sent from my E7110 using Tapatalk
That's CJ 7 factory set up by the looks of it. As far as the welded studs I did the same thing to mine. The studs press into the rotor and then everything is assembled from there. Problem is new Chinese made rotors (yes they are all Chinese) are designed with larger holes as they fit other applications that slip over the studs. So when you get new studs the holes are to large to hold them and they fall out.

Here's my 85 Dana 30 front 7f4a6b4cfbd1d6e6ef8cae41850c32fe.jpg

Sent from my E7110 using Tapatalk
 
Solution
Interesting. I am sure I can put a weld on the studs much better than the previous owner, however is this the only way to solve this problem with stock parts that are available?

I guess I am trying to determine all my options at this point beyond welding studs. Different year Jeep options that would work, buying some kit, fabricating something custom, etc..

I am new to the Jeep world and never have really dug into the 4x4 stuff and I thought it was weird that all the 4x4 places I talked to thought this was bizarre?

Your description is spot on. I stood at the auto parts counter (the knowledgeable one, not the one they have to look up parts by year, make, model) and saw that a new stud just slips in and out on the rotor due to the hole size being too big.
 
Ya it's a pita but with the press in studs you have to replace them with a new rotor or at least you should. To me it's not a big deal to just weld them plus with the size and thickness unless you hammer all 5 at once you won't generate enough heat to warp the rotor.

As far as 4x4 shops go I tend to find out that anything more than bolting on parts on Jeeps and trucks that are less than 10 years old they are less than useless and have little to no knowledge.

BTW welcome to the forum this is great place full of knowledgeable people and friends.

Also we love pics so post a few of your beast

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I am sure this has been asked a million times, but this is considered the 2-bolt knuckle correct?

Here is a pic still on the trailer from Cali. Before I left, I took off the windshield and the light bar.
 

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That's a pretty clean 5 just by appearance I'm thinking they swapped in a set of wide track axles. Pull some measurements from back of drum to back of drum in the rear and same with front but with the disc and let us know what length you come up with

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I am sure this has been asked a million times, but this is considered the 2-bolt knuckle correct?

Here is a pic still on the trailer from Cali. Before I left, I took off the windshield and the light bar.
Two and six bolt knockles refer to the number of bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the knuckle.
These pics are just examples.

download2bolt.jpeg

s-l400.jpg
 
That's a pretty clean 5 just by appearance I'm thinking they swapped in a set of wide track axles. Pull some measurements from back of drum to back of drum in the rear and same with front but with the disc and let us know what length you come up with

Sent from my E7110 using Tapatalk

So from rear inside drum edge to drum edge is somewhere close to 52 1/2 inches. The front was a little tougher to get a measure on since I have one of the rotors off, however from one dust shield edge to another was somewhere closer to 50".
 
Looks like the narrow track wheel to wheel is--front (53 inches) rear (50.5 inches)
and the wide track wheel to wheel is --front (56 inches) rear (54.6 inches)

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Other than some kind of axle dimensions, I am not sure what that means. I assumed it was a stock Dana 30 front / 44 back?
I believe he was making sure you still had the correct axles (which you do). Some times they get changed. The transition year for narrow to wide track was 82.
 

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