Closed knuckle Dana seals

[SlightlyBurntOut]

Good evening Gentlemen

Im new here so be easy on me. I am a 3rd generation die-hard Jeep lover that has just recently entered the world of CJ5’s when I recently acquired a 1965 model, F-4 and 3 speed trans. I am planning a restoration to make it look as factory and stock as possible within reason. I have not had the chance to really dive into it head first yet but on Saturday I did manage to get it into the shop and roll around under it for a few hours and begin assessing things.

Mechanically things are very sound, it spent most of its life on a car lot as a yard donkey and snow plow unit. The steering is VERY tight, surprisingly, only about an inch or so of play in the steering wheel. I spent the afternoon greasing every linkage I could find and looking things over.

One thing that really caught my eye was the closed knuckle joint on the drivers side is weeping oil pretty good. I’m not sure which model Dana this is so perhaps someone here will know. Now, first tell me how these work... it has what appears to be a fill plug so I would assume that gets filled to the run over point with some kind of light grease or heavy oil?

Second, what all is involved with replacing the seal? I have looked at the kits on Omix-Ada and EBay but cannot find any installation sheets. Can these be installed simply somehow from the inside without pulling the hub and all that jazz?

I’ve also seen some kits with the kingpin bearing assemblies, with steering as tight as mine do you perhaps think that part could be skipped or is it best to do it all at once. When the front axle was up on the jack I forgot to grab a bar and see if there was any play in the kingpins but I really should do that.

Thanks for your help. I’m sure this has been addressed here before but didn’t find much in the search. I’m sorry, it won’t let me post photos for some reason.

 

[Posi]

Should be a Dana 25 if stock. It will be stamped on the diff webbing under some dirt and grease.

Ok, so its been around 15-20 years since I last rebuild a Dana 25 so I'm going on memory take it for what it's worth.

I'm not surprised the knuckle is leaking most do. To fill removed the pipe plug and fill to top. I filled the knuckle with axle grease, sometimes I mixed axle grease and stp, but just axle grease will do. I believe they used straight 90 from the factory.

You have to remove the knuckle to get to the oil seal and backing ring. There are shims under the bearing cap to adjust pre-load. I used a inexpensive fish scale. Connect the scale hook into the knuckle tie rod hole, turn the knuckle all the way inward, then pull the knuckle all the way out, as it sweeps the center line take a reading. I recall 13-14lbs

I'm sure if you do a search you could find a step by step procedure.

However, if the only thing you notice is a bit of leaking and all else is within specs then you could just add some grease and call it good. Personally I find rebuilding kingpin knuckles interesting and worth the time.

 

[EchoWars]

No closed knuckle joint in any vintage Jeep used 90W for lube. It's only because the correct lube is nigh-on impossible to find that many have resorted to using tranny grease. If that's the case here as well, lots 'o grease weeping is pretty much SOP.

The lube called for is a #0 universal joint lubricant (just #0 grease, essentially, pretty much the consistency of very cold molasses). Back when I bought my old Jeepster, the steering knuckle was also filled with 90W and leaked everywhere. I rebuilt the knuckle and found a local auto parts store with a 5 gal container of #0 grease that had been sitting for a decade or two and the employees were tired of tripping over it...so they sold it to me for basically a song. Probably a lifetime supply. If you'd happen to be close to KC, you're welcome to fill up a grease gun or two.

Here's what Novak has to say about closed-knuckle lubrication:

A dry ball is a sign of using the wrong lubricant, and a dry ball will allow contamination to enter the knuckle assembly. An overly wet (regular dripping) ball is a sign of a lubricant that is not viscous enough.

Use of the proper lubricant for the steering knuckle bearings is very important. The lubrication section of the Jeep Service Manual specifies Universal Joint Lubricant #0 for winter and #1 for summer. This material is a semi-liquid grease. Unfortunately, this semi-liquid grease has not been available for some time. An acceptable substitute can be made by mixing chassis lube grease with SAE 140 gear lube until you have the consistency of cold molasses. A half pint of this should be pumped into each knuckle housing with a grease gun. A putty knife can be used to load it into the grease gun. Any lubricant thinner than that described above will leak from the knuckle seal. It will also work its way out into the hub area and contaminate the brake shoes. DO NOT use SAE 90 or 140 gear lube by itself as it is not the proper lubricant.

Novak does not sell, nor endorse any lubricant other than the above mixture.

 

[Posi]

Going out on a limb here, but I’m guessing the original poster that lives in PA won’t be swinging by KC anytime soon.
Good info on the knuckle pudding.
Fill the knuckle with axle grease.
You could add stp but be warned, it can be a messy procedure.

 

[EchoWars]

Going out on a limb here, but I’m guessing the original poster that lives in PA won’t be swinging by KC anytime soon.

Info was for any Jeeper, not just the OP.

Unless there's a problem with that.

 

[SlightlyBurntOut]

Thanks for the replies men, I do appreciate it.

Looks like now may be a good time to for new kingpin bearings if I need to pull the hub. I know my way around large trucks very well but have never had a smaller differential apart. Is it necessary to pull the axle out entirely too? If so, how does one go about this procedure.

I have not checked for certain yet but other online sources suggest this may be a 27 instead of a 25. I need to see where my numbers line up in the cutoff.

Thanks guys!

 

[Posi]

Thanks for the replies men, I do appreciate it.

Looks like now may be a good time to for new kingpin bearings if I need to pull the hub. I know my way around large trucks very well but have never had a smaller differential apart. Is it necessary to pull the axle out entirely too? If so, how does one go about this procedure.

I have not checked for certain yet but other online sources suggest this may be a 27 instead of a 25. I need to see where my numbers line up in the cutoff.

Thanks guys!

You may have a cross over year. Some 27's came out as early as '61 on some models. The beather location is different, 25 has it on cover and 27 on the housing. The 25 uses 8 bolts to hold the ring gear to the carrier and the 27 uses 10 bolts. I previously mentioned the axle number will be stamped on the diff webbing 25 or 27. You need to confirm this because the wheel spindle bearings on a D27 is slightly wider/ larger then a 25. The outer pinion bearing, seal and preload shims are same as on the 25 and 27.

Once you remove the spindle the axle will slide out.

Below you will find a step by step procedure.

The Novak Guide to Jeep Closed-Steering Knuckle Repair

Hope this helps.

 

[SlightlyBurntOut]

You guys are great!

Thanks for all the help, I will be reporting back. No idea when I will get this on the move, it will be a marathon and not a sprint.

Seems as though I am behind the 8-ball on everything I do.