cleaning the frame

[polish85]

So i decided to go ahead and take the whole jeep apart and rebuild. im down to just bare frame and it has a lot of dirt and rust and other stuff on it from the last 35 years. I looked into getting it sand blasted and the price i got quoted was way more then i wanted to spend. What is the best, cheapest and affordable way to get the frame back to new? I have air compressor so air tools are options as well. Thanks ahead of time.

 

[Miles]

Get a sand blaster from harbor freight then you can clean all the parts you want .

 

[polish85]

Get a sand blaster from harbor freight then you can clean all the parts you want .

Funny that you mention this. Im on their site right now ordering it! haha Thanks!

 

[Miles]

Funny that you mention this. Im on their site right now ordering it! haha Thanks!

Cool!

 

[PaRenegade]

I'm a year and a half into a total resto and between my benchtop blast cabinet and outdoor gravity hopper type blaster, I've used those two tools more than almost all others. You won't regret it. And I didn't even do my frame (I bought a new one from TDK).
What are your plans for finishing the frame after blasting?

 

[polish85]

I'm a year and a half into a total resto and between my benchtop blast cabinet and outdoor gravity hopper type blaster, I've used those two tools more than almost all others. You won't regret it. And I didn't even do my frame (I bought a new one from TDK).
What are your plans for finishing the frame after blasting?

Well i went to HFT and instead of buying the sand blaster i decided to just get 2 angle grinders and some wire wheels. I got plenty of time to do the frame so figured i might as well save some money by not getting the blaster. I do have another question that might change my mind about it though. How much of a mess does it make? I have a 2 car garage and there is nothing but jeep parts everywhere and a 2nd tub so Limited on space. If i were to get the blaster do i need to tape off everything with plastic wrap? Can it be done outdoor? Might be a stupid question but i have no idea what im getting myself into but im diving head first. Might as learn everything on my 1st project.

To answer your question after i clean the frame i was thinking to get it powder coated but once again 2 much so i was going to apply whatever kind of spray or liner on it to protect it for another 35 year .

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

The mess will be there with a sandblaster. Same goes with the wire wheels. Proper PPE is required for both methods. Safety glasses AND face shield/full hood is the better way to go. Respirator isn't a bad idea for either method, at minimum the little paper kind will go a long way to keep you from having rusty nasal passages!

Angle grinders just can't get to everything and dang sure not as fast as a good sandblaster. There will be places you missed with the grinder.

Air is a big deal with the sandblaster. You are going to need at least 8-9 cfm @ 90psi with a 50lb sandblaster. Air compressors this big aren't cheap. At all.

I have used both a cabinet and gravity flow type recently and they both came from harbor freight. Just can't beat what sandblasting can do for really cleaning to bare metal.

Look at farming it out as well. Couple hundred bucks is cheap considering the investment in big air to work with. Then you will have a properly prepared surface. For small stuff, get the table top mentioned. Great investment. I have blasted and repainted just about everything that I took off of my CJ. Makes it look new and I am confident that it will make it another 33 years as well.


This won't be too expensive Dear! That's what I keep saying. Over and over again.

 

[PaRenegade]

Yes, sandblasting does make a mess. I do whatever doesn't fit in my benchtop cabinet outside. I string up some tarps on 3 or 4 sides, then put a tarp on the ground. This way I can recoup my sand for re-use. I do recommend a respirator and a fan set nearby to keep clean air flowing and blow the dust clouds away. Plus if it's hot you'll be sweating your behind off under the blasting hood that will keep fogging up. And do use a hood to protect your eyes.
If a sandblasting service is nearby I'd at least inquire as to the cost to do your frame. It will save you time and the mess. Sandblasting is the way to go but it is a pain.

As for protecting it, prep is key. All the sanding or wire brushing residue must be removed. I personally would / did use Eastwoods internal frame paint for inside (which comes with a small hose) and POR-15 on the outside with a topcoat of POR's BlackCote. But there are other epoxy or urethane based products out there that will work. I would not go the primer / paint route. That will be short lived. Boiled linseed oil is another alternative for the inside coating but it's messy, requires 2 guys to swish the frame all around, and it takes days to dry.

 

[grozam]

Another way is to use meratic acid mixed 50-50 with water.Dig a hole in the ground below the frame and line it with a plastic tarp. Fill with the acid water mix and let the frame stay summursed for a couple days and all the rust will be gone. This is just another way to do it. No compressor, sandblaster, or sand needed.

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

Another way is to use meratic acid mixed 50-50 with water.Dig a hole in the ground below the frame and line it with a plastic tarp. Fill with the acid water mix and let the frame stay summursed for a couple days and all the rust will be gone. This is just another way to do it. No compressor, sandblaster, or sand needed.

But then how do you dispose of the 150-200gals of hazardous waste you have created?

Don't let Muratic acid fool you, it is still hydrochloric acid and will eat that frame to nothing. If you really wanted to go this route, search online for some non-corrosive acid. (Don't laugh too loud) Most of this stuff is completely inert after 7-10 days exposure to the environment. Green chemistry it is called. NFPA rating of 0,0,0. We use it at work and it will eat up iron oxide, iron sulphide, carbonate scale, stuff normally demolished by HCl. It really doesn't mess with good, solid metal.

 

[grozam]

But then how do you dispose of the 150-200gals of hazardous waste you have created?

Don't let Muratic acid fool you, it is still hydrochloric acid and will eat that frame to nothing. If you really wanted to go this route, search online for some non-corrosive acid. (Don't laugh too loud) Most of this stuff is completely inert after 7-10 days exposure to the environment. Green chemistry it is called. NFPA rating of 0,0,0. We use it at work and it will eat up iron oxide, iron sulphide, carbonate scale, stuff normally demolished by HCl. It really doesn't mess with good, solid metal.

It works for me and doesn't eat good metal. It's more user friendly than sucking silica dust. I've done both for over 40 years. A good powerwasher can blast rust off as well but can also blast a hole through good metal if you are not careful.

 

[johnnyreb]

non corrosive acid huh? sounds like vinegar.

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

non corrosive acid huh? sounds like vinegar.

Vinegar is still acetic acid. Weak acetic, but acetic nonetheless.

NCA is just a science experiment gone right. To the tune of a multibillion dollar industry gone right! Not an "acid" per say, but it has a pH of like .5-1.5. And it won't burn your skin or hurt your eyes. Works well to substitute for some of what I do at work.