Misc. CJ7 manual brake issue.

[OSUAV8R]

Just rebuilt my rear brakes (drum). After driving it for a few days I took it to Midas to have a professional look at it. They replaced the cylinders, and I drove off. It seems my proportioning valve is messed up because the rears are getting far to much pressure. I drove on grass and the rears lock up way to easily.

could it be anything other than the proportioning valve?

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Ya they could simply not be adjusted properly. Most people today have no clue how to adjust drum brakes

Sent from my E7110 using Tapatalk

 

[OSUAV8R]

Ya they could simply not be adjusted properly. Most people today have no clue how to adjust drum brakes

Sent from my E7110 using Tapatalk

He seemed to…. but who knows. if I go about 5mph and shift into neutral, I feel the drums slights braking… right/wrong? What would you suggest?

 

[TSB8C]

You should not feel the brakes dragging, even doing only 5mph. The rear wheels should be able to spin freely, or with only extremely minimal resistance, when you are not applying any pressure to the brake pedal. If you are feeling the brakes drag or partially applied without putting any pressure on the pedal, then they are adjusted too tight. General adjustment process involves first cleaning the moving components (star adjuster, sleeve, plungers on the cylinder, etc). They must be able to move freely. Then adjust the star adjuster until the shoes just barely touch the inside of the drum. Then back the adjustment off one click on the star adjuster.

Possible issues: drum is out of round causing rubbing, adjuster star/components gummed up and can't move freely, wrong wheel cylinders installed (one for 11" setup instead of the 10" version).

 

[Manic Mechanic]

I'm going to go with they aren't adjusted properly. Start with backing off on the adjuster. Looks like this. They are different right to left as well

Sent from my E7110 using Tapatalk

 

[OSUAV8R]

Thanks I’ll try that first. All the hardware is new and clean…. I’ll update ASAP.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Also post a picture of your breaks the shoes are different front and rear (longer one for the parking brake)

Sent from my E7110 using Tapatalk

 

[OSUAV8R]

Also post a picture of your breaks the shoes are different front and rear (longer one for the parking brake)

Sent from my E7110 using Tapatalk

Will do

 

[TSB8C]

Also post a picture of your breaks the shoes are different front and rear (longer one for the parking brake)

Sent from my E7110 using Tapatalk

Good point. Longer shoe in the back. Mixed up would also cause an issue.

And in terms of the adjuster hardware being different left to right, that is correct. There is a definite left side and right side adjuster. And one is left-hand threaded. So ensure the right parts are on the right side.

 

[OSUAV8R]

Will do

Everything is correctly assembled first three are drivers side

Last 2 passenger side

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Everything looks right. How much drag was there when pulling off the drum

Sent from my E7110 using Tapatalk

 

[TSB8C]

First thing I noticed is that the adjuster on the driver side looks in the pic like perhaps it's not seated properly. There are usually two "prongs" or a notch in the adjuster that fits into and around the slot in the shoe (see red circle in the pic). I couldn't tell from the pic of the passenger side whether it was the same or not. Or maybe I'm just not seeing it clear enough in the pic.

 

[OSUAV8R]

First thing I noticed is that the adjuster on the driver side looks in the pic like perhaps it's not seated properly. There are usually two "prongs" or a notch in the adjuster that fits into and around the slot in the shoe (see red circle in the pic). I couldn't tell from the pic of the passenger side whether it was the same or not. Or maybe I'm just not seeing it clear enough in the pic.

View attachment 86648 View attachment 86649

They are the same. Look just like in your pic.. just dirty

The passenger side was a bit harder to get off… did a bit of jiggling and it came off. Getting new drums from power stop, as they seemed warped and are new. They were great. As far as the rears grabbing with any pedal… I called Midas to see which cylinders they installed. This is exactly why I never take my jeep anywhere and do everything myself. I just didn’t have time this time

 

[OSUAV8R]

I turned the adjusters two or three teeth… definitely less “grabby” but in grass the tears lock up easily (just a bit less than before)

 

[TSB8C]

Agree on never taking mine to someone else. I don't trust mechanics, and especially when dealing with an older vehicle where mechanics today have only received training on new or current technologies. I have a buddy that took his old Chevy C10 pickup to a transmission guy and was told that they couldn't work on it because the transmission had no computer interface to diagnose it with. He has a 700R4 auto. So their techs had no idea how to address an issue with a transmission they couldn't just plug into and get a code. No surprise many techs have little to no experience with drum brakes.

If you had to "jiggle" a drum to remove it, then it was adjusted a bit too tight and/or the drum is out of round and needs turning or replacing. They should just slip off the shoes, possibly with the slightest contact, but without having to fight them or "walk them off" with side to side jiggling or struggling. I think you're on the right track with new drums and verifying which wheel cylinders were used.

 

[Project86]

Agree on never taking mine to someone else. I don't trust mechanics, and especially when dealing with an older vehicle where mechanics today have only received training on new or current technologies. I have a buddy that took his old Chevy C10 pickup to a transmission guy and was told that they couldn't work on it because the transmission had no computer interface to diagnose it with. He has a 700R4 auto. So their techs had no idea how to address an issue with a transmission they couldn't just plug into and get a code. No surprise many techs have little to no experience with drum brakes.

If you had to "jiggle" a drum to remove it, then it was adjusted a bit too tight and/or the drum is out of round and needs turning or replacing. They should just slip off the shoes, possibly with the slightest contact, but without having to fight them or "walk them off" with side to side jiggling or struggling. I think you're on the right track with new drums and verifying which wheel cylinders were used.

This is the way.

 

[hole]

You may have a proportioning valve issue. Try bleeding fronts first, then rears and finish with fronts again.