bolt removal 101

[rr41mag]

This seems to be a very popular topic so I couldn't help but put my .02 worth.

First off I did 15 years in the air force machine/welding shop. A majority of which was removing screws, bolts. I had everything from 10/32 dry bay panel screws, fuel cell panel coin slots, landing gear bolts, and numerous engine screws and bolts. I've done it, been there and have the t shirt. I've been up on a stand trying to figure out how i'm gonna get a broke bolt out of an engine with a couple colonels, a major, a captain and several Cheifs on the ground wanting to knwo if I can fix it? Talk about pressure.

About broke, stripped, or otherwise stuck bolts. Let me break them into two groups. Let me call them heated areas and just plain corroded. Lets take heated areas first. Exhaust manifold bolts are a prime example. The area gets heated then cools etc, etc, etc. This causes corrosion and weakens the bolt.

Bolt removal in heated areas:

Step 1. clear the area as much as possible to make drilling easier.
Step 2. Grind/sand the broke bolt down flat and center punch as close to center as possible.
Step 3. Start with a small bit (split tip) say a 1/8th and drill as far as your can.
Note: keep chips cleaned, used compressed air or wd40 with the straw, or both, this is VERY important!
Step 4. keep drilling up in small incraments say 1/8" till you get to tap size. You can google tap drill sizes. Some tap drills are in numbers EX: 1/4-20 is a #3 drill bit
Step 5. begin tapping. You might only be able to turn the tap a 1/4 turn till you feel it get in a bind. back it all the way out, clean out the chips and do it again. Take your time!!!!

Step 6. Keep the chips cleaned out they are your enemy. Run the tap in and out by hand slowly.


Non heated areas............

Lets take those roll bar bolts for example.

Those torx heads will snap the end of a split tip drill bit off in a snap. Scrap one drill bit.

One way is to drill the torx bit starting with 1/8th then work your way up to say 3/16th then take a nice sharp chisel and pop the head off. Take channel locks and clamp the chisel in them.

Once the head is off follow proceedures for drilling and tapping in the heated section.

Drill bits: Get split tip drill bits. They are expensive but they are worth it.

When drilling remember....slow RPMs....heavy feed

EZ OUTs....... I don't like them. They cause more problems than what they are worth. They have an application but I havent found it yet.

I hope this helps yall. I actually typed all this and hit a button and delted it and retyped it again.

 

[rr41mag]

here you go. a tap drill chart

 

[Gunner Actual]

Great job! You make it sound so simple, but when I've broken three bits and cussed out one stinking bolt for an hour, it seems a lot harder

 

[rr41mag]

I hope my years of experience helps just one person I will feel good about this info.

 

[C dubya]

Bolts have been kicking my A** for two weeks now. Thanks for all the info!

 

[tarry99]

I would also add a couple of more techniques to the bolt removal mix here:

For me the most important Item before attacking any stuck bolt removal especially internal or external driven heads is to start with the correct sized removal tool...........worn sockets or drivers will just bugger up the head and we all know from this point forward the project will go down hill.

If you can get at either end on a through bolt, a 1/16" thick high speed cutoff wheel makes for quick removal.
Knock the head off and take a drift punch and knock it through.

On using drills standard High Speed drills may have a problem getting through a good Grade 8 bolt as the factory roll bar bolts would normally be. In that case use a colbalt drill bit with correct feed, speed & lubrication.

Heat......... is also a good friend on stuck or rusted bolts, heat it up to red let it cool a little and normally will come right off.
In tight areas where a flame may do other damage a small butane pencil torch works wonders to loosen them up.

 

[DANsCJ7]

This seems to be a very popular topic so I couldn't help but put my .02 worth.

First off I did 15 years in the air force machine/welding shop. A majority of which was removing screws, bolts. I had everything from 10/32 dry bay panel screws, fuel cell panel coin slots, landing gear bolts, and numerous engine screws and bolts. I've done it, been there and have the t shirt. I've been up on a stand trying to figure out how i'm gonna get a broke bolt out of an engine with a couple colonels, a major, a captain and several Cheifs on the ground wanting to knwo if I can fix it? Talk about pressure.

About broke, stripped, or otherwise stuck bolts. Let me break them into two groups. Let me call them heated areas and just plain corroded. Lets take heated areas first. Exhaust manifold bolts are a prime example. The area gets heated then cools etc, etc, etc. This causes corrosion and weakens the bolt.

Bolt removal in heated areas:

Step 1. clear the area as much as possible to make drilling easier.
Step 2. Grind/sand the broke bolt down flat and center punch as close to center as possible.
Step 3. Start with a small bit (split tip) say a 1/8th and drill as far as your can.
Note: keep chips cleaned, used compressed air or wd40 with the straw, or both, this is VERY important!
Step 4. keep drilling up in small incraments say 1/8" till you get to tap size. You can google tap drill sizes. Some tap drills are in numbers EX: 1/4-20 is a #3 drill bit
Step 5. begin tapping. You might only be able to turn the tap a 1/4 turn till you feel it get in a bind. back it all the way out, clean out the chips and do it again. Take your time!!!!

Step 6. Keep the chips cleaned out they are your enemy. Run the tap in and out by hand slowly.


Non heated areas............

Lets take those roll bar bolts for example.

Those torx heads will snap the end of a split tip drill bit off in a snap. Scrap one drill bit.

One way is to drill the torx bit starting with 1/8th then work your way up to say 3/16th then take a nice sharp chisel and pop the head off. Take channel locks and clamp the chisel in them.

Once the head is off follow proceedures for drilling and tapping in the heated section.

Drill bits: Get split tip drill bits. They are expensive but they are worth it.

When drilling remember....slow RPMs....heavy feed

EZ OUTs....... I don't like them. They cause more problems than what they are worth. They have an application but I havent found it yet.

I hope this helps yall. I actually typed all this and hit a button and delted it and retyped it again.

Thx. After snapping off an easy-out when trying to remove an exhaust manifold stud, I appreciate your reluctance to use one