Big daddy vs. Rugged ridge

Big daddy vs. Rugged ridge

Dan77CJ7

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76' CJ-7 4.2L/T-18/d20 d30sua/amc20soa M/T MTZp3 35/12.50/15s mc2100
I found the rugged ridge Draglink/tierod kit, on amason for $165+free shipping and the big daddy is 165 just for the drag link $100 for the tie rod and you have to get all the ends. rugged is a complete kit. but i would like to know is what set up is better? i heard about "dead spots" with the rugged? other then that i haven't come across any Pros and cons. maybe you guys have a little insight on the all around better set up. and i have no plans to flip, thanks. 77CJ-7 Dana 30
 
If I remember correctly the RR one used larger 7/8" tie rod ends, which may be tougher to find. I got the BD drag link, which came with both ends, because I already had a SkyJacker tie rod. And I only paid $109 just last summer for the draglink, right from Big Daddy. Their customer service does have some to be desired. And their website doesn't come up in an ordinary search. www.bigdaddyoffroad.com

Their combo dl & tr is $179 and it shows the tre's but doesn't spell it out for sure. It still shows the drag link only for $109 but it says "w/ end", as in singular, one only. It said "endS" when I got mine but I had to request the other because they only sent one. Guess they changed their website and removed the "s".

I just checked the Rug. Ridge site and it says $309.99 for the combo (and they are the 7/8" tre's), so you might want to verify product and price before you order. Many websites are known to type in the wrong nomenclature or use the wrong photo.
 
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If I remember correctly the RR one used larger 7/8" tie rod ends, which may be tougher to find.

This is true. I havent tried to source the ends yet.
 
So you guys are saying they use 7/8 threads but the stock cj tapper? If so what would that be a stock replacement for?
Maybe I've been missing something but I thought the ends with bigger threads all had the bigger tapper.:confused:

Back on subject I'm not sure what someone might have meant by dead spots in the RR, They are all just tubes with TRE's ends on them.
I would look for one that took stock cj TRE's myself.
 
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I used Big Daddy tie rod and drag link. At the time I bought them I thought they were thicker material. They bolted Right in. I bought mine about 10 years ago.
 
I bought the rugged ridge from amazon for around the same price. Mine went on no problems. I can't speak for how it performs. It's not on the road yet. I do kind of wish I would have researched it a little more because of the tie rods being harder to find.
 
I dont have a ton of time tonite but I'll try and come up with a part # for the TRE"s for the Rugged Ridge and post it here.
 
Any body try the M.O.R.E. tie rod & drag link set with hiem joints?
 
I believe I read something about heim joints not being legal for street use. I could be wrong on that or it could be a state by state thing.

This may help you Pete in tracking down a commonly available tre once you find the specs needed.
Moog Suspension Parts - Universal Outer Tie Rod Ends
 

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is it the smaller end or larger.... ones kinda longer the longer is the right. i was told by 4WP. i put both right at the pass wheel.:chug:

Im using it for the drag link to steering box end.
 
Im using it for the drag link to steering box end.

are you going to set it up like i have mine or is there a differnet way the ends go? i only put the rights on the passenger knuckel because they are longer i thought they would give more clearnace? what do you think Pete?:confused:
 
Heres what I came up with lately. I boogered the threads on my drag link end. It should be 7/8 and right hand thread correct?

Rugged Ridge Tie Rod End, 7/8" Shaft, (Right Hand Thread, OE Tapered) - 18043.26

I know nothing about RR (so I'm not sure about the 7/8 part) but I would think you should have 1end threaded RH and 1 end LH so you can adjust it with both ends connected.
Make sure what you order is the right taper, most 7/8 ends are for the bigger taper. (unless you redid the taper to the bigger size)

Just reread the ad, I see it says it's for a OE jeep, I guess that's why it costs so much.

Just wondering, how did you boogger up the threads?
 
I know nothing about RR (so I'm not sure about the 7/8 part) but I would think you should have 1end threaded RH and 1 end LH so you can adjust it with both ends connected.
Make sure what you order is the right taper, most 7/8 ends are for the bigger taper. (unless you redid the taper to the bigger size)

Just reread the ad, I see it says it's for a OE jeep, I guess that's why it costs so much.

Just wondering, how did you boogger up the threads?

old dog i have a left and right per tube. so get that, but does it matter where the left and right ends are bolted? i have my rights on the pass knuckle and lefts on the pitman and driver knuckle?


And the tapper is the same RR kept that, they made the threads bigger
 
Dan, I don't think it would matter. Like you though I run the RH thread on the right hand side of the jeep (pass. side) It's just easier for me to remember when I need to adjust or change them.
 
Dan thats the way I have mine. I couldnt find the pickle fork I have to seperate the tie rod. I didnt want to booger the threads or my castle nut so I quick grabbed another and threaded it on slightly. In my haste I grabbed a nut that was fine thread and 2 strikes with the BFH...:eek:
 
I bought the Rugged Ridge kit on amazon with ends for $160. (free shipping). Will be popping it on late this week or weekend and will report back. The odd size TRE's is a bummer for replacement, but hoping I wont have to replace them too often.
 

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