1974 Jeep CJ5 Fuel tank removal problem.

1974 Jeep CJ5 Fuel tank removal problem.

bonepl8

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'74 CJ5 V8 Stock
Trying to start Jeep after sitting for years. The Jeep is pretty good shape. When turning it over, there doesn't seem to be any gas getting to the stock carburetor. I thought I'd start at the back and drop the fuel tank, clean it out and try again with fresh gas. I tried to siphon the gas out and replace with new/clean gas but it wasn't working. There is rusty gas in the tank so I put 5 gallons of new fuel in to dilute the crappy gas. I'm trying to do now what I should have done in the first place and thats remove the tank to clean it out completely. I removed the skid plate first but I can get the back two bolts/nuts to loosen up. I can get at the bolt but it just turns and I can't get to the other side to hold the nut. The top side is in a spot I can't reach, not even with a wrench.
Any ideas? Has anybody done this just fine and I'm missing something?

1974 CJ5 Stock V8
 
I was lucky (on my '75) and the all bolts came off pretty easily. Once I got looking, after removal, there is access to the top of the bolts if you remove the flat, round fillers snapped into the bed sheet metal. Take a look at the floor of the bed, there should be metal hole plugs, maybe 1"-1/4" diameter. Sorry I don't have pics. Good luck.
 
:ww::dbanana::banana:

The fuel is now a gel. You will need to rebuild the carb and flush the lines also.
Good news-NO SMOG.....:D
May have to air-chisel of the bolt heads.
DO NOT use a grinder(sparks).:eek:
Have you ck'd ALL oil levels along with all other fluids?
LG
 
I was lucky (on my '75) and the all bolts came off pretty easily. Once I got looking, after removal, there is access to the top of the bolts if you remove the flat, round fillers snapped into the bed sheet metal. Take a look at the floor of the bed, there should be metal hole plugs, maybe 1"-1/4" diameter. Sorry I don't have pics. Good luck.

I did not have any luck finding holes that would allow me access to the tops of those bolts, so...bummer. I did end up making a few tools to help me accomplish the task at hand and now I have the tank off. We poured out all the fuel from the tank and the gas was very rusty colored with some rusty junk still floating around in the tank. So I'll clean the tank out, replace the sending unit and put it back together. I can show you some pics of inside the tank if you'd like to see em. I'm not sure what to do after this though.....
 
:ww::dbanana::banana:

The fuel is now a gel. You will need to rebuild the carb and flush the lines also.
Good news-NO SMOG.....:D
May have to air-chisel of the bolt heads.
DO NOT use a grinder(sparks).:eek:
Have you ck'd ALL oil levels along with all other fluids?
LG

So YES i did get the tank off. The gas wasn't gel really but it was very dirty with rust. There's still some rusty fuel in the tank to clean out. It has the original sending unit and it was pretty beat up so I'll need to replace that before I put it back together. I'll then blow out the lines and then...I guess I will see what happens.
All fluids have been checked and topped off if needed. Wish me luck!
 
If you plan on keeping the original tank, you should seal it if there is rust. I did this to an old 1950's vintage outboard motor tank because a replacement was not available. I got the tank sealer from a Harley dealer. The other side option is replacement. The tanks are widely available in metal, plastic, even used OEM for reasonable prices. All it takes is a little missed rust entering your fuel system and ruining your trail ride to make you think, ":censored: I should have just replaced the tank!"
 
Thanks for the suggestion of sealing the tank. That seems like something I can do.
 

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I sealed my outboard tank many years ago. Nowadays, there are a lot of products to choose from. I know that POR15 makes a tank sealer. Make sure that you follow the directions and get the tank really clean using the cleaning solvent that is suggested. Make sure the tank is thoroughly dry before applying the sealer, and allow the sealer to dry completely before using the tank. Good luck!
 
Glad to hear you got the tank out.
I have had good luck with Por15 and would recommend it. I am in the process of replacing my tank now with a Crown re-pop unit. As good as the exterior of the old tank looked, sitting since 1988 really ate up the interior and I do not wish to take chances.
 
Glad to hear you got the tank out.
I have had good luck with Por15 and would recommend it. I am in the process of replacing my tank now with a Crown re-pop unit. As good as the exterior of the old tank looked, sitting since 1988 really ate up the interior and I do not wish to take chances.

Good advice! I decided to do the same thing. I should receive my Crown replacement tank today or tomorrow. I also ordered a new sending unit. Are you using a new sending unit or reusing your old one? Someone suggested that I not replace it with the new one.
 
I sealed my outboard tank many years ago. Nowadays, there are a lot of products to choose from. I know that POR15 makes a tank sealer. Make sure that you follow the directions and get the tank really clean using the cleaning solvent that is suggested. Make sure the tank is thoroughly dry before applying the sealer, and allow the sealer to dry completely before using the tank. Good luck!

I ended up ordering a new tank, there seemed to be more rust in the tank than I thought and replacement tanks are pretty affordable.
 
I ended up ordering a new tank, there seemed to be more rust in the tank than I thought and replacement tanks are pretty affordable.
I kind of thought that that was the best idea. Tank sealants are great for vehicles who's tanks are like trying to find hens teeth, but there is a pretty good aftermarket on our CJ's, even if most of it is Chinese junk! You just have to read the reviews on the product and make the best choice that you can.
 
Good advice! I decided to do the same thing. I should receive my Crown replacement tank today or tomorrow. I also ordered a new sending unit. Are you using a new sending unit or reusing your old one? Someone suggested that I not replace it with the new one.

You will be glad you bought the new tank. I will likely be jinxed for saying this... but no, I didn't replace the sender. I watched the needle drop as I siphoned the old fuel. The other thing I did was carefully mark the orientation of the sender so it was installed in the same position in the new tank. I got the last part together yesterday and put a couple gallons of fuel in, the needle just came off the 'empty' line. Tonight I plan to fill and drive the Jeep, only my third time! We shall see if the sender works properly.

Good luck on yours.
 
There are 3 solid steel fuel lines on top of the frame be sure to blow them out with compressed air
 

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