Default Clocking a Dana 300 and new skid 

Old 11-07-2010, 08:48 PM   #1
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Question: I wanted clock my Dana 300 transfer case and build a new skid plate to increase my ground clearance. Has anyone walked down this road? If so, what potholes did you hit? Thanks for any help.

 

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Default Re: Clocking a Dana 300 and new skid 

Old 11-07-2010, 09:30 PM   #2
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Sorry I haven't made it to that road yet, it's still comming up sometime in the future.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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Default Re: Clocking a Dana 300 and new skid 

Old 11-08-2010, 08:53 AM   #3
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The only thing I know about it is it either takes money or a drill press....the money part is the clocking ring that shortens your rear driveshaft by an inch or the drill press method which is best accomplished with a disassembled transfer case I am headed after the second method since I have a 3550 5 speed and my rear drive shaft angle sucks bad enough
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Default Re: Clocking a Dana 300 and new skid 

Old 11-08-2010, 11:00 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gert View Post
The only thing I know about it is it either takes money or a drill press....the money part is the clocking ring that shortens your rear driveshaft by an inch or the drill press method which is best accomplished with a disassembled transfer case I am headed after the second method since I have a 3550 5 speed and my rear drive shaft angle sucks bad enough
Hey gert have you tried test fitting a D300 to your nv? I had the aluminum input housing from a 300 and it seemed to fit in the tail of my 3550 just fine. If I recall correctly the d300 has a NP bolt pattern so it may bolt to your 3550 without any issues as long as you are maintaining passenger side drop.

I would go with a clocking ring to reclock your TC for the OP i have seen them for 60 bucks and they aren't quite an inch i think closer to 3/4 inch is what mine measured out to be.
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Default Re: Clocking a Dana 300 and new skid 

Old 05-20-2012, 12:47 AM   #5
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i would like to know what all it takes to do the clocking. i have herd that the drive shaft will be of to one side and I'm not sure of the belly up style skid to make or if i can buy one.

 

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Default Re: Clocking a Dana 300 and new skid 

Old 05-20-2012, 08:48 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by seaharding View Post
i would like to know what all it takes to do the clocking. i have herd that the drive shaft will be of to one side and I'm not sure of the belly up style skid to make or if i can buy one.
you will need a clocking ring, you need to bend the shifter, enlarge the hole for the shifter, and a cv driveshaft as the angle will be to much for a reg. driveshaft. You usually need at least a 1" body lift and I had to cut one of the ears for the shifter bolt off.
I don't know if anyone makes a belly up skid for a cj. I made my own crossmember with 2 seperate skids for the transfercase and trans.
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Default Re: Clocking a Dana 300 and new skid 

Old 05-20-2012, 11:32 AM   #7
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2 skids. great idea. thanks for the info. is advaced adapters the only clocking ring?

 

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Default Re: Clocking a Dana 300 and new skid 

Old 05-20-2012, 01:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seaharding View Post
2 skids. great idea. thanks for the info. is advaced adapters the only clocking ring?
There is a few places that make them. Novak and JB come to mind with JB's kit that comes with a new input shaft being the best.
JB Conversions, Inc.
I had an adapter for the TH350 to D300 in mine so I just redrilled it @6* the frist hole in the rings is usually 7*.
I'm taking my rear skid off now to get at the u-joints, I'll snap a couple pics of my crossmember and post them later.
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Default Re: Clocking a Dana 300 and new skid 

Old 05-20-2012, 01:26 PM   #9
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cool. thank you.

 

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Default Re: Clocking a Dana 300 and new skid 

Old 05-20-2012, 04:59 PM   #10
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since I have a chevy drive train with a D300 t/c mine will be different than yours but here's what I did.
The crossmember is a piece of 2X3 tube and the skid plates are 1/4" plate.
The crossmember has the trans. mount and the skids bolt to the frame seprate so they can be taken down to work on the t/c or trans. without taking the trans down.
They now hang down 1 1/4" below the frame, maybe not flat but alot better than before.
The rear skid is off in the first and last pic.
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