87 Wrangler dies

[cdlongjr]

Checked all the fuel system with a blow gun @ 10 psi. No obstructions or debris. Hooked everything back up & still no start. Removed the fuel line into the factory fuel filter & placed it into a liter bottle. Good fuel flow. Hooked it back up, no start. Removed the fuel line from the carb & placed it into the bottle. Damn thing started. Hooked the fuel line back up to the carb & she wouldn't start. Removed the line again & she started again. Hooked it back up & no start. Removed the return fuel line & put a rubber cap over the nipple on the fuel filter. She started & idled better than she ever has. Usually cold, I had to pump the gas pedal to keep her running. Not this time. What's the problem with the return line? Do I just cap the steel return line so she'll pass inspection? (They pressure test the fuel tank).

[cdlongjr]

I wonder if the canister plumbing may be causing my problems:
CTO (As you are facing the driver's side of the engine)
I have 2 ports on the left & 3 ports on the right
Right side
1st port closest to the engine has no hose to it
2nd port has a line from the vacuum line to the brake booster (has a tee in it)
3rd port goes to number 4 on the canister
Left side
port closest to the engine goes to the modulator valve on the tranny
other port has a line fom the brake booster

Canister (from firewall to the radiator
#1 to air cleaner base
#2 vapor from fuel tank
#3 tee with PCV valve
#4 to CTO, 3rd port on the right

NO vacuum to EGR valve

[BrockGrimes]

When I read the beginning I was thinking You had the same issue I had with my old YJ. Drove me bonkers trying to figure it out. Turned out to be a leak around the fuel hose, that and it would try to collapse at high RPM's. The rubber line would collapse and then suck air and the damn thing would shut off.

Had an old timer point it out to me and sure enough that is what it was.
Replaced all my rubber lines and never had a problem after that.

Only thing I can figure with the return line capped is that it's putting enough back pressure in the system to keep it supplied with fuel.

Next time it shuts off see if the line to the carb is collapsed, then move the linkage and see if it squirts fuel.

[cdlongjr]

I swapped the carb with the carb off my 74 J-10 with the 360 CI engine. I was able to correctly plumb all the lines from the canister except the line closest to the firewall. It is supposed to go to the vent on the fuel bowl. My carb doesn't have that vent. I ran the line to the tube on the left rear of the carb, which goes into the air cleaner.

[cdlongjr]

SHE"S ALIVE!!! Drove her 70 mph today. Combo of wrong carb & canister plumbing.

[CJ]

Finally! It feels great to get it worked out, doesn't it?

I have to say, I really admire your persistence!

[cdlongjr]

Thank you sir! Yeah, I enjoyed the ride. I want to restore this one as I really screwed up sellin' the 5. I have sooo much time & money in her now I might as well finish her. The root problem was I had the plumbing for the canister wrong & was building vacuum in the gas tank. Since the return line had the least resistance, the vacuum pulled the fuel back to the tank. Plus the fact that I didn't have the return line @ 12 O'clock.
You'll be seeing more posts as she still has issues, starting in all p,r,d,2 & 1 is the next problem to solve.

[IOPort51]

It's kind of like hitting yourself in the head with a hammer, it feels really good when you stop.

Originally Posted by cdlongjr Thank you sir! Yeah, I enjoyed the ride. I want to restore this one as I really screwed up sellin' the 5. I have sooo much time & money in her now I might as well finish her. The root problem was I had the plumbing for the canister wrong & was building vacuum in the gas tank. Since the return line had the least resistance, the vacuum pulled the fuel back to the tank. Plus the fact that I didn't have the return line @ 12 O'clock. You'll be seeing more posts as she still has issues, starting in all p,r,d,2 & 1 is the next problem to solve.