4.0 Head, MPFI, and Serpentine on my 82 258

dslywalker · 05-30-2010, 06:48 PM

Was the other fuel pump from the 4.0 in tank?You could put a elec pump back by the tank with a large pre filter like Howell Inj does it.Depends on what it needs for fuel press to determine pump sizing.I think thats what your talking about when you say fuel delivery
Mike

ThisGuyUKnow · 05-30-2010, 09:50 PM

Well yeah I just am worried about it is all. I have a handle oon everything and a thorough understanding of the components engine wise and wiring just not fuel. I read the inlines tend to go bad and that has me concerned. I was thinking about getting a intake pump for a 94-95 cherokee and dropping my tank and installing it on the assembly. But intank pump or inline what about the fuel lines?Will i have to redo all my hard lines on the sending side as well as all the rubber lines.. Questions like that.

I am getting ready to install a inline pump into my carbed waggy. And that is supposed to be super easy according to everyone online. But I was under there today before the rain hit trying to figure out where the heck to put it. My hardlines in it run from the tank almost all the way to the power steering box before the soft lines start. So I guess I am going to have to cut a section of the hardline out under the frame.

Fuel delivery and A/Cs just confuse me I guess.

Thew · 05-31-2010, 11:39 PM

OOHHHH, this has me itchin to to the 4.0 head swap. Cant wait to see the wiring part.

ThisGuyUKnow · 06-01-2010, 09:23 PM

Got the clifford's spacers today.... for 33 dollars you get 4 spacers not 14. I called cliffords and was like "WTF" and they said that you just put two in the front and two in the back and thats all that is necessary.... I don't like it I think that it would make more sense to center all the bolts but whatever cliffords knows more about engines than I.

I used carbe cleaner to clean the mating surfaces of the block and the head and also cleaned the top of the pistons and the cyclinder walls. Then (since I have my Battery tray removed) I stood on the frame and dropped the head in placeTorqued the bolts all to 85 FT/LBs with the exception of #11 that got a little locktight on the thread and 75 Ft/LBS

I test fit the intake and it looks like the serpentine power steering bracket will actually mount to the intake... Not sure though because some of the power steering lines were in the way. I am still thinking about pulling a Serp setup from a donor but may be able to get away with out it just by rerouting the PS lines.

ThisGuyUKnow · 06-03-2010, 08:20 PM

Well making some forward progress now. Got the Rods installed(I reused the 258 ones) and then got the rocker assemblies in (I used the ones from the donor) I also went down to the U pullit and gots me a serpentine setup... I am not sure if the components will work but I was mostly hafter the brackets and idlers.

I went with a 91-95 xj for the serp donor so as to keep from mixing years as much as possible. I have been told not to go with an xj serp because they have an offset cooling fan and it will cause clearence issues. This is not really a conrern for me because I will be running a contour fan and if need be I can shorten the studs on the fan pully.

I broke the mismatch rule on the valve cover by pulling a 1996 cover but hey it was in the best condition I could find and it had a cool spark plug wire corraller thingy.

I also grabbed a ecm from a manual OBD1 xj.

Grand total ------$60 bucks.

Intake and exhaust are mocked up... Had to bend the brake lines a little more to clear the intake.

ThisGuyUKnow · 06-04-2010, 12:10 AM

I was just thinking about it and I am going to be pretty ticked if I can't get this to run or I blow the head gasket or something when this is all done. So far it has been a little too easy.

Buuushman · 06-04-2010, 06:13 PM

If you are still worried about your fuel issue, I would get a relatively high pressure electric inline pump and use a regulator in the engine bay. This way you wont have to worry about inadequate pressure and you can dink with it if it's not just right. Also I hate dropping the tank to get at the dang pump if something does go kerflooey. Just remember that most inline pumps are pushers- not pullers- so it will have to be as close to the tank as possible.

Good luck!

ThisGuyUKnow · 06-04-2010, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buuushman

If you are still worried about your fuel issue, I would get a relatively high pressure electric inline pump and use a regulator in the engine bay. This way you wont have to worry about inadequate pressure and you can dink with it if it's not just right. Also I hate dropping the tank to get at the dang pump if something does go kerflooey. Just remember that most inline pumps are pushers- not pullers- so it will have to be as close to the tank as possible.

Good luck!

Well here are the issues... First the original cj lines run down the pass side and come up on the pass side of the block. I guess this isn't too much of a problem because I see no reason why I just can't get a super long fuel injection hose and run it from the hard line to the the fuel regulator and it could follow the same path as it would have with the mech pump.... But can I reuse my hard lines? I mean I would think since they are metal that the higher pressure (i think i read online I needed a 60 psi pump and a 40 psi regulator?) but I am no expert and no one really puts a lot of detail into the fuel delivery in the write ups.

Also do only rubber hoses between the fuel pump and the engine need to be upgraded, or do you also have to change out any that run from the tank to the begining of the hardlines?

I was thinking intank but an inline sounds more servicable. But why do people claim you need to keep a spare at all times? Do these have that poor service life? I mean a good quality one is close to 90 dollars so to get a spare and a primary you are looking at 180.

My other concern is the fact that I only torqued the head bolts to 85 Ft/LBs which is the torque spec for an 82 CJ7 with 7/16 bolts. But hey if IO hasn't had any issues with it I guess I shouldn't worry.

dalefan88 · 06-05-2010, 11:12 AM

for the rubber line i would run all fuel injection hose. the hard line should be fine if there not rusty. if they are i would replace them. fi hose i not cheap. i work at advance and its about $5 a foot.

dslywalker · 06-05-2010, 02:21 PM

I think people keep spares just to have it.If you put a large fuel filter on the suction side you should be fine.Mines mounted on the frame close to the tank passenger side.Its been running for 12 years no problem.Just don't get a cheap one locate it close to the tank.If you can try to protect it with something.It'll probably run you a 100 plus for on.Ask Dale Fan what one costs and a regulator
Mike