*Personally* I'm not sure a TF-999 will stand up to an LS, but anything is possible.
Do you mean vehicle wiring harness or engine control wiring harness?
Not much to the vehicle wiring harness once the emissions
is removed, it's often cheaper and more functional to build the basic light & HVAC harness yourself.
The engine management harness will be specific to the module you use,
Example, non-electronic engine trans (TF-999), electrically controlled auto trans, same with manual trans...
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Headers will spark a religious discussion, but others can comment on best set if you choose to go that way.
Read more:
https://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/what-trans-should-i-use-my-86-cj-ls-swap-32413/#ixzz6O4MPE4Aq
Ain't that the truth!
SO MANY with big ideas on headers & camshafts, so few ever been in a Dyno room, but speaking with absolute authority...
I've spent HUNDREDS of hours in a dyno room, and I can name at least 20 variables that would effect exactly same set of headers, but not one word about those...
More 'Belief/Religion' than scientific proof.
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I give the front U joints about the third full throttle jump...
I switched from I-6 to a mildly built 360 and the both front U joints lasted about a 1.5 miles from the trail head...
The first about 150 yards when I bumped the throttle like I used to do the I-6, and the banging commenced,
Stopped, changed that quick since I was set up for it,
The second was about 1.5 miles from the trail head when I had to climb on wet clay and get around a tree about 2/3 the way up the hillside...
Last spare 'U' joint and changing on the hillside wasn't fun, nothing to anchor the winch to on top, so leaned it against the tree and commenced to changing the second U joint in an hour...
That V-8 lead to an outboarded HD
Dana 44 up front, and a Ford 9 inch out back...
Build, wheel, break, repeat... We all know how that works!