Steal verses fiberglass

Steal verses fiberglass
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Becker Mn
Vehicle(s)
1978 Cj7 with a complete fiberglass body, Chevy 350 motor with Edelbrock carb and intake manifold, super Lift 3" lift fit, 33" tires on 12" wheels, stock 3 speed trans, stock transfer case, stock front and rear differences, complete rebuilt dash on stainless steal with stock gages, 1.5" wheel spacers, and best top seats and soft top.
I bought my 78 CJ7 with a fiberglass body. Knowing how steal will flex and fiberglass is more ridged how does the fiberglass hold up under off road conditions? What should I avoid or do to not have any future issues.
 
There are numerous add on metal rocker panel and corner guards that you can install to protect the body when banging into trees and rocks. These are also good with a metal body.
 
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This has been discussed in alot of places, here's the short story.

All Steel bodies are made by 1 company using old dies. Not everything lines up perfectly. Willy's Overland takes those steel tubs and reworks them so that they are a true bolt on.

The cheaper glass tubs tend to be problematic. Some use plywood for support in the tub and it eventually rots and warps. I'm looking at a Shell Valley tub that uses kevlar for renforcement.

Also, there's the issue of grounding. With a fiberglass tub, you can't just ground to the body.

I'm still going back and forth on what tub to get. For the price of a WO tub, I can get an entire HD fiberglass body kit from Shell Valley (everything except the grill & windshield frame).

For me, WO is in Toledo, so I can save the shipping costs by picking it up myself.
 
I'm still wondering how it will take the flexing, or is the frame that ridged?
 
I'm still wondering how it will take the flexing, or is the frame that ridged?

There's a guy in in one of the clubs I associate with in Ohio that's had a HD glass tub on his CJ for 24 years and it's still in one piece. This thing is by no means a pavement princess.
 
Steel may bend when fiberglass cracks.
For normal use and even hard off-road use the fiberglass won't crack. The frame may flex but the body mounts will allow for that. The difference comes when you bump into a tree or anything else. Thats when you either end up with a crack (fiberglass) or a dent (steel). Some of those smaller dents in the steel you may not mind but if you have a fiberglass body, the crack will be something you won't want to have. For that reason I prefer steel. If you want fiberglass that can really handle abuse the body is as heavy as steel.
 
Steel may bend when fiberglass cracks.
For normal use and even hard off-road use the fiberglass won't crack. The frame may flex but the body mounts will allow for that. The difference comes when you bump into a tree or anything else. Thats when you either end up with a crack (fiberglass) or a dent (steel). Some of those smaller dents in the steel you may not mind but if you have a fiberglass body, the crack will be something you won't want to have. For that reason I prefer steel. If you want fiberglass that can really handle abuse the body is as heavy as steel.

I'm probably going with steel for the ease of repairs/mods and not having to deal with grounding issues.
 
Thanks for your input. I just didn't want to have a million cracks from stress, now I don't have to stress!
 
Thanks for your input. I just didn't want to have a million cracks from stress, now I don't have to stress!

If you go with steel, I'd suggest Willy's Overland, unless you are really into fab work.

I visited their shop/storefront afew weeks back and the guy who runs it took me back into the work area and showed me several tubs in different stages of being corrected.

There's a ton of things like body mount holes that don't line up, to the steering shaft hole in the firewall that doesn't line up.

They have some youtube video's that show the things they do to make the steel tubs truely "bolt on".
 
Looks like some steal corners or armor might be the ticket or just watch out for those trees getting my way.
 
My shell valley glass CJ5 body is 21 years old. It still looks new but it had a few issues with the floor separating from the firewall that i repaired. Other than that the body has stood the test of time well. I run a shell valley one piece front end as well. I like them being that i live in New England and like to drive my Jeep in the winter. A metal body would be trashed by now. I am installing a Kentrol glass body on my CJ8 right now. My only complaint is the rear sides seam a little thin. I plan to run metal corner guards for this. The CJ5 doesn't have any. For stress cracks the CJ5 has none. I see a little gel coat cracking but that is it. The glass has done well.
 
If you get a well make glass body it can take a good beating and hold up with out cracking.
I went with glass because I live in the rust belt and didn't want to have to buy a new body every 10 years.:D
 
My shell valley glass CJ5 body is 21 years old. It still looks new but it had a few issues with the floor separating from the firewall that i repaired. Other than that the body has stood the test of time well. I run a shell valley one piece front end as well. I like them being that i live in New England and like to drive my Jeep in the winter. A metal body would be trashed by now. I am installing a Kentrol glass body on my CJ8 right now. My only complaint is the rear sides seam a little thin. I plan to run metal corner guards for this. The CJ5 doesn't have any. For stress cracks the CJ5 has none. I see a little gel coat cracking but that is it. The glass has done well.

Do you remember which one you have? I know they have a standard and an HD with kevlar.
 
I bought it with the fiberglass on it so I'm not sure. Any way of checking to find out?
 
Back in 1992 they only had fiberglass or kevlar. I bought the glass tub as the kevlar was twice as much. Shell Valley was a small outfit back then and i only had three choices, acme, aj's(who are out of business now) or shell valley. I picked them because they were closest to me in Utah for shipping.
 
There is a lot of old fiberglass boats around that have taken a beating.
Go figure. Mike
 
My 81' is all steel and I plan on keeping it that way. I have no problem fixing a rust hole with new steel when needed. It's better for grounds as well. I don't plan on putting it in the salt, so it should hold up well as long as I keep it up. Fiberglass does have the advantage of not rusting but decreases the resale value so I've been told. I also would rather be in an accident with steel over the glass. They both have different advantages and disadvantages. I don't know which one is the heaviest but weight could be a deciding factor as well. fiberglass looks bad when it starts to check and is harder to paint well. Most old fiberglass boats don't usually have very good finishes on them and look bad with all those checks. To me the only advantage glass has over steel is the rusting issue.
 
Have a Glass Body and love it NO MORE RUST!
And for grounding,,to run a designated ground back to a buss at the battery is so easy to do .This should be done to all Jeeps regardless of body type.
It,s just a better way to insure no electrical problems.
Just my two cents.
 
Thanks for all the input. I too live in the rust belt (Mn) so the fiber glass is not a bad option.
 

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