Build Thread project CHIMERA

[Belizean]

Rust free windshield frame for $ 70 sounds great !

 

[K9kodi]

no kidding. i'll be dumping some axles. transfer case, maybe a spare motor

 

[Masscj7]

Not a lot to do toward converting to YJ tub. There are the cross member mounts that need adjustment, the mount forward of the driver rear wheel, depending on tailgate choice, defrost set up, moving windshield tightening bolts, and depending upon what fender flares you want to run. Welcome to the fun.

 

[K9kodi]

yea i'm pretty solid on the tub mounts but i'm gonna have fun w the defrost i'm sure

 

[Masscj7]

That’s not too bad. Follow Shum8’s posts or mine. My only disappointment in mine was I free hand cut my holes. Use a hole saw for your ends. I didn’t want to go out and buy one and now I wish I had. They look good, but not perfect.


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[K9kodi]

just got windshield frame , ended up being absolutely rust free. any marks on it to determine factory or aftermarket. 50 bucks wasn't gonna pass it up

 

[K9kodi]

started demo on the trashed frame and have some more questions.

is it possible the jeep i'm raking frame section from has narrow trac axles? the guy i got the rolling chassis frame said he believes the axles are geared and locked. while the axle housings are rusty the u joint straps and pinion seal hardware looks brand new. i want to crack them open and count teeth and see what the gear ratio is and if it's lower then stock use those axles, however i'm
not sure i want them if they are narrow trac. i'm also left with what was explained to me to be a running, a good running inline 6. looks decent from the outside, no leaks or anything. distributor cap looks new as well as wiring and fuel pump. there's also a transmission and t case mounted to motor, i think it's a 4 speed but not sure. i also got a spare tranny and bell housings. i ran the serial number on the side and it was only a digit or two on the end off of a tremac t117 i believe. no borg warner signs or labels. the front portion of the frame is solid down to the frame rails below the door. that's where i will splice. it has a shackle reversal and the front will accept my yj lift leafs but the rear of them appear to need new yj shackles, which i have as well. i will be giving away the motor, transmissions, t case and a set of matching axles.

 

[Peanut Butter]

Best way to tell on you axles is to measure them.

Wide Tracks: Front would measure 55.8" and rear 55"

Narrow Track: Front would measure 51.5" and rear 50"

(wheel mating surface to wheel mating surface on each side)

Other possibility is that the axles are from a different vehicle.

 

[K9kodi]

copy thanks

 

[K9kodi]

why did they have a narrow trac?

 

[caveman]

why did they have a narrow trac?

It's just the way they were made to keep it narrow. When people started to treat CJs like sports cars and tipping them over they widened them to try and keep them upright. Still didn't work. The people that thought that CJs were sport cars just went faster until they tipped over again.

 

[K9kodi]

so what would you do, geared (unsure if number) and locked narrow track or stock wide track. i could put spacers are the narrow

 

[caveman]

I would keep it stock with the narrow track. If you want a little wider track, I would go with some offset wheels. Spacers can sometimes cause more problems.

 

[K9kodi]

the cj i'm actually rebuilding has wide track axles. the frame i got to repair the original cj has axles on it, appear to be narrow track, geared and locked. unsure if i should take the axles with the jeep i'm rebuilding or use the ones off the frame i got for repair pieces

 

[K9kodi]

okay, so without pulling the believed narrow track, i measured from outside of rotor surface to outside of rotor surface on front axle and came up with almost exactly 50". i'm scrapping the extra 258, 2 transmissions and transfer case.