Front end shimy

[cntymnty]

My 1977 CJ5 has front end shake over 55 mph.. The only thing I have not done is replace the original tie rod ends. Would worn tie rod ends cause the shaking? I've replaced the shocks, steering stabilizer, balanced and tried rotating the tires. (the tires Bridgestone Desert Duelers, almost 30 years old but only have about 20K on them). Front bearings are good and recently serviced, I'
ve tried different air pressure, drive shafts are new and balanced. Any ideas?

 

[hole]

You mentioned you did everything, but did that include ball joints? Is the jeep lifted? Proper caster degree if it is? How long have you had the Jeep? Have you recently upgraded anything?

 

[hole]

I lost my manners, sorry. I should have started with Welcome

 

[Belizean]

Welcome. I was thinking with starting with some new tires. Not going to help with your problems but might keep you from a disaster. Probably dry rotten. Also go with the above recommended thoughts from hole

 

[RiverandSand]

Welcome from Yuma, still have a place in San Diego. Yes bad tierods could cause shimmy also a loose steering gear. Have someone turn the wheel while you look at the steering components, look for anything loose or moving before the wheels do.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Stop the guessing. Get it to an alignment shop.
Gary

 

[cntymnty]

Thanks for the welcome. I’ve had the jeep since 1982. In the mid 80s I put a Rancho 2.5 inch lift on it. Leaf springs only. The ball joints are original. I recently had a lot of work done to it, which included regearing, changing from the three speed to a T 18 four-speed, and fabricating the driveshafts appropriately. The shop also put very thin shims on the front wheels Between the brake back plate and the face of the ball stud. My camber was noticeably excessive , preset at factory. I learned some of the jeeps manufactured in 1976, 1977 came from the factory that way. Castor is factory sett too. The only adjustment is toe in. I assumed that they did that alignment but I could be wrong. The shop also put power steering on it for me, and the steering box was acquired from a junkyard and is in good condition. All the work was done by a very reputable shop in San Diego. Up to 55 mph it’s very smooth, I can look out at the left front tire and it’s tracking smoothly. When I hit 60+ though I look out at the front left tire and it is noticeably shaking. When I have time I will raise the front end off the ground and see if the ball studs or tie rods have any looseness

 

[hole]

It wont take much being off degree wise to cause a shimmy. When I first test drove mine after installing a 3" lift, I was taken back to being a kid on "Mister Toads Wild Ride". A couple degree shim made it go away. Camber is factory set, but you can bring the Castor back to spec with shims. Try and only use steel shims if thats the route you need to take. All that said, I'll lay a .50ct wager its the ball joints

 

[hole]

You may want to strongly consider new tires in this process too. "Almost 30 years old" is not good and may be contributing to the problem

 

[TnCJ]

You may want to strongly consider new tires in this process too. "Almost 30 years old" is not good and may be contributing to the problem

^^^^^^^What he said^^^^^^^^
Sounds more like a tire issue to me, belts can separate on the tire which can make for a rough ride, tires can even go out of round.
Like one wise old mechanic told me "you can balance a brick but it still won't roll smoothly".

 

[cntymnty]

I'm buying new tires. I have Rancho Springs that gives me a 2.5 inch lift. I want to go from 32's to 33's. Does any body have a 2.5 inch lift with 33's that can tell me if they have tire rub when bottomed out?

 

[hole]

I'm not much help there. Running 32's without a hint of rub. Thinking about going 33's next time myself. You go first and let me know

 

[Belizean]

Got the Rancho 2 1/2 myself on 31s and room to spare, wondering if the 33s would work as a use on trails also once in awhile

 

[cntymnty]

Today I bought BF good rich all terrain KO2’s in 33 x10.50 x 15 on my 8 inch rims. A success all the way around. Took it out wheeling first thing to a goat trail where I could get full articulation. No rubbing front or back, however, I’m certainly at the limit of my clearance. I like the narrower look of the 10.50 better than the 11.50. I stopped a couple times on the trail when either of the front or wheel rear wheels was completely compressed. Not close at all to the fender well, But within an inch more or less of clearing the underneath lip of the fender flare. I think if I would’ve went with the one 11.50 I may have had a problem. Front and shimmy at speed was reduced by at least 90%. Additionally, when I had everything rebuilt last year and had power steering put on, I thought the jeep drifted a lot going straight down the road. It seems the new tires have eliminated that issue too. For comparison for you guys, I have the 2.5 inch freedom rider Rancho Springs that I put on in the mid-80s with the stock shackles. That’s the only lift modification I have. It was interesting too, because researching the data, it shows the BF good rich tires to have a height of 32.5 inches. With my 8 inch rims the height is only 31.5. Thank you everybody for the input, and don’t be afraid to put on 33‘s with a 2.5 inch lift as long as you don’t go to wide.

 

[hole]

Thank you for the update! Glad to hear most of the problems worked out with tires. If those ball joints checked out OK, it sounds like I owe you .50cts. Do you want me to mail it to you?

 

[Belizean]

Glad you got those new tires. ! That was I'm sure an accident waiting to happen

 

[cntymnty]

Thank you for the update! Glad to hear most of the problems worked out with tires. If those ball joints checked out OK, it sounds like I owe you .50cts. Do you want me to mail it to you?

I haven’t checked or tested the ball joints or tie rod ends in earnest yet. Just lifted the front end and checked for any looseness. Didn’t feel any....so hold on too the two quarters for now.

 

[hole]

Will do!

 

[cntymnty]

Update! Everything that could’ve been done on my front end was done. The caster was adjusted with shims, Tie rod ends were checked. Ball joints good. New shocks, new steering stabilizer, new tires, spin balanced a couple different times. Everything that could’ve been done and checked was done and checked. Still, anything over 55 was a front end wobble. The shop that balanced my new tires had a good mechanic that finally figured it out. He took me up out to the shop and had me crawl under the jeep, told me to watch the brake drum when he spun the tire. My left front brake drum had a bad wobble to it. The drums were replaced some years ago when I had the brakes done. So the mechanic ordered drums, and it took him weeks. He went through 9 drums to get 4 that were true enough! Crazy! Made in China of course. The shop owner told me you can’t find drums made here anymore. True or not...I don’t know. In any case, the problem was solved. No more wobble above 55...I’m so thankful that the mechanic looked outside the box to find the problem After everything I did. I got him some gift certs to a local eatery!

 

[Belizean]

Glad you got it figured out. I'm still rolling on my originals. I know that all the rotors for our jeep front brakes are all imports. My first replacements were Napa lifetime. They gave me new ones free 25 years later. Next ones were or are good for 1 year.