Flat Towing my modified CJ-7

[BGCDY04]

I know there is a lot of info on the site about flat towing but im new to jeeps and mine isnt stock, to be exact im not even completely sure what all is done. what i do know Its a 1979 CJ7 with fiberglass tub, chevy 350 with a TH400 (turbo 400) auto trans, now is where it gets tricky i believe they are the amc axles?!? but it has an aftermarket twin stick transfer case, its lifted 4-5in on 35's. i am considering flat towing it from florida to oregon this winter and am not sure how to set it up. i know i have a steering wheel lock so i will need to leave the key in acc but im not sure about the front hubs (lock or unlock) transmission and T-case. any help would be great.

 

[hole]

With an auto trans I would think pulling rear driveshaft and fronts un-locked would be all you need to do.

 

[Incommando]

The easiest way to be 100% sure you are safe is to pull the rear drive shaft while leaving the front hubs unlocked. You can just disconnect the u-joint at the diff. if you are sure you can attach the shaft securely in case of bumps, etc.... and up out of the way. The axles shafts themselves turning will not matter at all. I am assuming that your parking brakes work so that you can secure the vehicle if needed just as if you put the tranny in "park."

If that is not appealing to you for some reason you probably need to contact the t-case's manufacturer to get their recommendation. That is a far more important component in flat towing than the axles.

 

[BusaDave9]

OEM axles would have been the AMC20 rear end. http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f105/cj-axles-12186/#post97663
It's very easy to identify by the very round cover:

The front was a Dana 30 when your CJ come off the assembly line. http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f105/cj-axles-12186/#post97660

I think your flat towing questions were answered: remove the rear driveshaft. For short distance towing across town you can keep the driveshafts on and hubs locked. But longer distances take the driveshaft off. This is true of all gear driven transfer cases. That's what you most likely have even if it's aftermarket. Post a pic of your TCase and we should be able to identify it.
We had a discussion on this: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/front-hubs-towing-3458/

 

[bjkttr]

I agree pull the rear and leave the front unlocked

 

[norville]

If you plan to use it on the drive out there, I read putting the transfercase in neutral and the tranny in park was the way to do it. If it's a stick I heard 2nd is the way to go. the though being , not having the transmission turning while towing.

If you do not plan to drive it at all. (motorhomes can be a pain in store parking lots ect..) Pull the shafts...

Unlock the hubs

 

[Sasquach]

Make sure you turn the ignition to unlock the steering wheel.
I see that after rereading your post you are aware of that, I allways double check mine before getting underway.

 

[IOPort51]

and if you are going to leave the key in the switch, disconnect the battery!

Make sure you turn the ignition to unlock the steering wheel.
I see that after rereading your post you are aware of that, I allways double check mine before getting underway.

 

[Sasquach]

On my 78 the first position unlocks the steering-the next is accessories-the next is start. So unlock does not run the battery in mine afaik.

 

[IOPort51]

I guess it's just the thought of someone looking in and seeing the key and thinking it would be an easy joy ride. even though it has no drive shaft.

 

[Fix and repair]

I have a 78' CJ7 with 33's and a manual trans. I herd towing on the flat was head on the front end and not good for tire ware. I invested in a tow dolly with electric breaks, problem solved.

 

[tarry99]

I have a 78' CJ7 with 33's and a manual trans. I herd towing on the flat was head on the front end and not good for tire ware. I invested in a tow dolly with electric breaks, problem solved.

Lets see some pictures...........