Clutch replacement

[Basod]

Still dealing with some random shudder after full warmup cruising in 4th.
Staring to lean towards a clutch issue. Already did team rush ignition, new fuel filter with return routing(though I had it licked) then it did it again driving home yesterday.
It's been making some whirring sounds at idle and the occasional bugle- assuming that's the pilot bushing on its way out.

The transmission mount looks iffy and torque arm bushing isn't secured currently. The skid plate is not aligned, which from reading here seems common.
Anyways seems like it's time to drop the skid plate tranny and TC and go through them all as its getting winter time.

I'll document some pictures as I go.

 

[Basod]

Finally got a good day for it.
Took some measurements before I started and the TC output shaft is not centered 17-3/8” to the PS and 14-5/8” to DS frame rails. I’m guessing that’s about where it should be? The axle diff isn’t centered either.

Came apart easier than I expected 2-3hrs to get it out and pressure washed several inches of dirt and grease off trans and tc.
Plan on rebuilding both of them.
Transmission mount was completely shot as was the throw out bearing.
Front Driveshaft is custom lengthened and definitely not straight so either new or I’ll cut it down and reweld straight.

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[Basod]

Had to cut a small notch in the tub to access the fifth rear bolt in the shift cover I’ll smooth it out with the grinder now that everything is out of the way.


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[JeeperChris]

I'll be going through all this next summer. Really looking forward to getting the trans and tc rebuilt, I'm sure they could use it after 40 years.

 

[Basod]

I'll be going through all this next summer. Really looking forward to getting the trans and tc rebuilt, I'm sure they could use it after 40 years.

Why wait until next summer?
That’s why I’m tearing into it now so she’s ready to go for spring.
Contemplating a mild lift and axle overhauls next winter- unless I just do it all this year.

 

[JeeperChris]

Why wait until next summer?
That’s why I’m tearing into it now so she’s ready to go for spring.
Contemplating a mild lift and axle overhauls next winter- unless I just do it all this year.

I need it to get through the snow during winter. My 2-wheel drive Toyota just won't cut it. Heck, we had snow last week and I had to park down the street and hoof it cause the Jeep is still in the shop, and that was just the first snow of so many to come.

 

[Basod]

That’s why I moved down south 20yrs ago. Still have 4wd in my truck for the random dusting we get living on this mountain.

Made some progress after 1/2gal of spray nine brushing scraping I threw in the towel and broke out the oven cleaner.
Broke the tc and trans apart. Should have taken before pic- you couldn’t see a bolt head or cover seam before i started.

Rounded one bolt on the clutch cover- the last one. Guess I’ll grab a set of those easyout sockets or beat a 12/13 mm on


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[JeeperChris]

That’s why I moved down south 20yrs ago. Still have 4wd in my truck for the random dusting we get living on this mountain.

Made some progress after 1/2gal of spray nine brushing scraping I threw in the towel and broke out the oven cleaner.
Broke the tc and trans apart. Should have taken before pic- you couldn’t see a bolt head or cover seam before i started.

Rounded one bolt on the clutch cover- the last one. Guess I’ll grab a set of those easyout sockets or beat a 12/13 mm on


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I've had great luck with carb spray cleaner to get the guck off, even heavy stuff, just takes a few cans. And I've recently learned about PB Blaster for getting into the threads and helping to loosen bolts before wrenching on them.

Eventually I'll get south too, back down to Tejas.

 

[Basod]

Got the Transfer case broke down. Before I disassembled reinstalled the shift lever and was able to bang it into 4hi.
Ordering a kit with intermediate shaft as it looks rough.
Yokes need replaced as well the seal surface on the front has 1/32” groove worn in it.
Need to double check the red speedo gear as I’m off 10-15mph currently.

Against better judgement I’ll probably pull the detents due to the amount of corrosion inside the case.

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[Basod]

Popped the T4 apart and looks immaculate inside. I did order a clutch shaft bearing feels a little sloppy. Going to clean the tail housing shifter area due a long failed dust boot.

Then I broke the poor mans parts washer shallow tote and some diesel. It’s cleaning up the Transfer case gears and housings nicely.

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[Lumpy Grits]

Look up 'Speedi-Sleeve'. Will fix the worn seal area on the yoke.
Gary

 

[Belizean]

Look up 'Speedi-Sleeve'. Will fix the worn seal area on the yoke.
Gary

Watched the video

 

[Basod]

Look up 'Speedi-Sleeve'. Will fix the worn seal area on the yoke.

Gary

I’ll order some if it leaks. Yokes are pricey and I literally just laid a thin film of JB weld on the grooves before seeing this post - thanks.
In a holding pattern just cleaning waiting on parts to arrive.


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[Lumpy Grits]

JB won't last.
Gary

 

[Basod]

Got the transfer case rebuilt yesterday evening and had my game plan set to put everything back together this morning.

Had the new flywheel clutch cover and bellhousing all installed and torqued.

Transmission didn’t want to go back in and then I happened to check the alignment tool against the input shaft - not the same spline count.

Did some digging and apparently the 4cyl T4 came with a 14 spline shaft and the 6cyl a 10 spline. My CJ7 was originally a 4cyl with a 6 swapped in at some point.

Debating on getting a new input shaft or another clutch kit and giving someone a good deal on this kit.


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[RiverandSand]

That sucks! I always test fit the clutch disc to the trans before install. I've learned that the hard way too. I would swap just the disc, it's probably cheaper that a new input shaft.

 

[Basod]

That sucks! I always test fit the clutch disc to the trans before install. I've learned that the hard way too. I would swap just the disc, it's probably cheaper that a new input shaft.

I know- I checked the pilot bushing before leaving for vacation and had it soaking in oil. Never even occurred to me the input shafts would be different.

Question is if the discs are compatible between the two kits.
The Luk repset pn for the 4cyl is 01010 (1”-14 spline)
The 6cyl is 01017 (1-1/8” 10 spline)
Rock auto won’t take the parts back and they don’t sell just the friction disc for either.

Input shafts run $55


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[Basod]

Mulled over my snafu this morning and decided on a new input shaft. It takes less than 10mins to take apart a T4.

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[RiverandSand]

Be sure the tooth count is the same on the input shaft counter gear drive. Also I would slip input shaft into clutch disc just to be sure.

 

[Basod]

Got it back together finally.
I test fitted the new shaft and it slid into the clutch and pilot fine.
Once assembled It didn’t want to go in smoothly. I think bellhousing alignment is off.

It runs out shifts into all gears except reverse smoothly- input shaft must be running on the pilot or the clutch isn’t fully disengaging.

When you set clutch free pedal do you measure from the pedal to the floor or somewhere else in the pedal radius? It’s right around an inch now.

When releasing the clutch I hear a brushing sound but locks right up once released fully could be the new discs?
At least no leaks from the trans or transfer case as of yet.


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