CJ Headlights

[JeffP]

Any CJ owner will tell you that the factory headlights suck. Here is a cheap and easy fix to remedy that.
The high & low filaments in the sealed beam headlights are identical, just in different positions with respect to the reflector.
Step one... install Halogen headlights!
The factory switch isn’t capable of handling the extra current of Halogen bulbs for long so you need to add a pair of relays. This way the only current the switches will ever see is enough to energize the relay coils. Merely miliamps so your switches should last indefinitely.
Rewire it so the headlight switch turns on the first relay, thus turning on low beam. Then remove the low beam wire from the high / low switch. Rewire the high / low switch so when the headlights are on, and the switch is “on” you activate the 2nd relay, turning on the high beam.
What you end up with is both high and low at the same time without overloading your wiring or switches. That’s more than enough light for a blind person!
I’ve been doing this for years on a variety of vehicles and it works especially well for older model Jeeps.
To clarify... when the regular headlight switch is “on”, the low beam is on. When you turn on high beam, low remains on but high beam is added. You can use the dimmer switch to change from high to low or turn off the dash switch and everything turns off.
If anyone needs a wiring diagram let me know. I’ll draw one & post it.

 

[jp360cj]

Headlight relays are an unbelievable upgrade. For me, a side effect was also better dash lighting (the cluster lights used to flicker on an off) and a the headlight switch doesn't get hot to the touch.

How big of a difference do you think the high and lows are together? I left my dimmer switch wired as factory (low beams turn off with high beams on). I've been considering adding a jumper at the dimmer switch from the in feed to the low beam output. I don't really feel like I need the extra lighting, but I've had a lot of trouble with broken dimmer switches lately and at least this would leave me with low beams.

 

[JeffP]

Headlight relays are an unbelievable upgrade. For me, a side effect was also better dash lighting (the cluster lights used to flicker on an off) and a the headlight switch doesn't get hot to the touch.

How big of a difference do you think the high and lows are together? I left my dimmer switch wired as factory (low beams turn off with high beams on). I've been considering adding a jumper at the dimmer switch from the in feed to the low beam output. I don't really feel like I need the extra lighting, but I've had a lot of trouble with broken dimmer switches lately and at least this would leave me with low beams.

Obviously double the amount of light. You can test it with a simple jumper wire to see if you like it before you dig into another project. I’m confident you will... if not I’ll present myself for a proper beating.
Remember to use relays so you don’t melt down your switches!
FYI... switches “should” outlast the Jeep after this since they no longer need to handle any current.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

In the CJ world-Most electrical concerns can be traced to poor GND connections.
That is why, it's a good idea to run a dedicated GND from the dash panel to the battery NEG(-).
Same can be said about running GND leads from the grill to each fender, and then to the firewall.
LG

 

[JeffP]

In the CJ world-Most electrical concerns can be traced to poor GND connections.
That is why, it's a good idea to run a dedicated GND from the dash panel to the battery NEG(-).
Same can be said about running GND leads from the grill to each fender, and then to the firewall.
LG

He’s right! 14 awg minimum! You can’t have too many grounds!

 

[gr8dain]

In the CJ world-Most electrical concerns can be traced to poor GND connections.
That is why, it's a good idea to run a dedicated GND from the dash panel to the battery NEG(-).
Same can be said about running GND leads from the grill to each fender, and then to the firewall.
LG

This right here^^^^^^^^. I have had to add a number of dedicated grounds. I grounded my grill by running a wire from the neg post of the battery right up to the grill support rod. Cleaning up the spot where that support rod attaches to the grill to get a solid connection, and “pow”, my lights improved and no wacky action of the markers.

I also have cables from the neg post to the frame as well as one directly to the block.

 

[jp360cj]

You can test it with a simple jumper wire to see if you like it before you dig into another project

, that's such a simple test, yet I haven't thought about trying it in 2 years. I'm assuming you haven't had any issues with the extra heat from the highs and lows on together? When I did the relays, the head light plugs were in bad shape, so I replaced them with ceramic ones in case I decided to do the high/low mod.

I'm running dedicated grounds to a ground bar on the firewall and a 2 awg wire from there to the battery. Haven't had a light issue in over 2 years.