Basic Clutch Replacement Info
mriplaybass
Full Time Jeeper
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- 2,345
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- Location
- Wisconsin
- Vehicle(s)
- 1979 CJ7 304 T18 w/6.32 lo d20 w/3.15 TeraLo D44 rear & D30 Front w/4.56 Eaton Elockers front and rear,
1959 CJ5,
1954 CJ3B,
1967 CJ5,
1947 IHC KB1,
1947 IHC KB2,
1947 IHC KS5,
1967 Mustang Coupe,
There is no one size fits all to clutch replacement, but here are a few basics.
First off, I will say purchase a kit. Replace all the parts, not just the ones that look bad. Kit will contain clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and a clutch alignment tool.
Start by removing drive shafts. Note positions of the drive shafts (also referred to as phase), ie, you want them to go back in the same way they came out. Most of the time this is not a big deal, but I have had vibration on a few vehicles when I forgot to mark them. Put a mark on the drive shaft, and a mark on the yoke so you put them back in the same way.
Disconnect battery
Remove driveshafts
Remove shifters
Support rear of engine
Remove transmission cross member
It is easier if you separate the transmission and transfer case before removal. If you do this drain the oil from both. A transmission jack is almost a necessity if you have a 4 speed. If you are removing a 3 speed, you may be able to wrestle the transfer case and transmission out.
Disconnect speedometer cable, and any wiring from transfer case/transmission.
Unbolt clutch bell crank from bell housing.
Remove starter
Once you have the transmission out, (may take a bit of wiggling, don't force or pry it out!) Remove the bell housing
Once the bell housing is out, remove the bolts holding the pressure plate in. Loosen the bolts a little at a time to allow the spring pressure of the pressure plate to relax. Once the pressure is off the pressure plate, remove all but the top 2, and bottom screw. Then loosen the top 2 almost all the way out. While pushing against the pressure plate with your hand, remove the bottom screw. The clutch disc will now be able to fall free when you let go of the pressure plate. Remove the 2 remaining screws and the pressure plate will come out.
Unless the flywheel looks like new, remove it and have a machine shop resurface it.
Remove the pilot bearing from the inside bore of the crankshaft. You can usually borrow the tool necessary from most auto parts houses.
Installation
Drive in a new pilot bearing
Reinstall Flywheel
Using clutch alignment tool, insert it through the clutch disc and insert the end of the tool into the pilot bearing.
Hold pressure plate against the flywheel/clutch and loosely install bolts. Draw pressure plate down evenly
Remove alignment tool
Install bell housing
Gently align transmission input shaft through clutch splines and into pilot bearing. Do not force transmission into bearing. If you can't slide transmission in with a little wiggling, you probably did not get the clutch disc properly aligned. Remove bell housing and loosen pressure plate evenly and realign.
If you made it this far, all that is left is to just reinstall everything in the reverse order that you took it out.
Make sure that you reinstall everything using proper torque on all bolts.
Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!
First off, I will say purchase a kit. Replace all the parts, not just the ones that look bad. Kit will contain clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and a clutch alignment tool.
Start by removing drive shafts. Note positions of the drive shafts (also referred to as phase), ie, you want them to go back in the same way they came out. Most of the time this is not a big deal, but I have had vibration on a few vehicles when I forgot to mark them. Put a mark on the drive shaft, and a mark on the yoke so you put them back in the same way.
Disconnect battery
Remove driveshafts
Remove shifters
Support rear of engine
Remove transmission cross member
It is easier if you separate the transmission and transfer case before removal. If you do this drain the oil from both. A transmission jack is almost a necessity if you have a 4 speed. If you are removing a 3 speed, you may be able to wrestle the transfer case and transmission out.
Disconnect speedometer cable, and any wiring from transfer case/transmission.
Unbolt clutch bell crank from bell housing.
Remove starter
Once you have the transmission out, (may take a bit of wiggling, don't force or pry it out!) Remove the bell housing
Once the bell housing is out, remove the bolts holding the pressure plate in. Loosen the bolts a little at a time to allow the spring pressure of the pressure plate to relax. Once the pressure is off the pressure plate, remove all but the top 2, and bottom screw. Then loosen the top 2 almost all the way out. While pushing against the pressure plate with your hand, remove the bottom screw. The clutch disc will now be able to fall free when you let go of the pressure plate. Remove the 2 remaining screws and the pressure plate will come out.
Unless the flywheel looks like new, remove it and have a machine shop resurface it.
Remove the pilot bearing from the inside bore of the crankshaft. You can usually borrow the tool necessary from most auto parts houses.
Installation
Drive in a new pilot bearing
Reinstall Flywheel
Using clutch alignment tool, insert it through the clutch disc and insert the end of the tool into the pilot bearing.
Hold pressure plate against the flywheel/clutch and loosely install bolts. Draw pressure plate down evenly
Remove alignment tool
Install bell housing
Gently align transmission input shaft through clutch splines and into pilot bearing. Do not force transmission into bearing. If you can't slide transmission in with a little wiggling, you probably did not get the clutch disc properly aligned. Remove bell housing and loosen pressure plate evenly and realign.
If you made it this far, all that is left is to just reinstall everything in the reverse order that you took it out.
Make sure that you reinstall everything using proper torque on all bolts.
Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!