Build Thread 1982 CJ7 Frame-Up Rebuild

Build Thread 1982 CJ7 Frame-Up Rebuild

Cazenave26

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Posts
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Location
Raleigh, NC
Vehicle(s)
1982 Jeep CJ-7, 4.2 I6 with Dana 300 TC and the Dana 30 in front and AMC20 in back.
I am in the midst of the tear down, but have been making some progress over the past couple of months, one of the biggest challenges has been finding shops to outsource some of the refurbishment activities. I don’t mind doing it myself but it’s the issue of time and working around the available space. The plan is to replace the power train with a turnkey LS1 and AX-15 with my reworked Dana 300 transfer case from Novak. The tub is in reasonable shape but will require some minor rust repair. Dashboard and the windshield frame were trash. The biggest issue is the body mounts that might need to be replaced. I would like to keep the axles, but not sure there a Limited slip differentials for either the AMC20 or Dana 30 anymore. May also need to consider AC for this thing after 20+ years without it. Some pictures including an older one when it was a daily driver (Dallas, Texas with no air conditioning). I also have a video of some electrolysis I did on the emergency brake assembly.09BAE748-0389-4BBE-A37D-6F58B61FBB91.jpeg7B479550-64C2-4950-8D64-0DA78B29CF5C.jpeg7E090CD7-BF5C-452A-BD9B-F9E3569EFE31.jpeg64D000E4-E63B-464E-9EDD-4A342C6848DD.jpegB37F3C3E-48DF-4A7F-854E-ED524145F2D4.jpeg0F5FF300-BFD8-44A6-BA0F-9565608B3F53.jpeg4ED16F5C-45E8-47D9-B6DB-C2B3F9E6551A.jpeg
 
Great engine choice with good power and outstanding driveability when tuned correctly. Make sure to reshape the teeth on that handbrake assembly, they are prone to disengage unexpectedly.

I have yet to see a frame-off restoration that I like. I would deburr all sharp edges, smooth out all weld beads and pitted surfaces, make all unnecessary holes disappear, and finish off with an ultra shiny coat of black paint to make the frame look like a body panel. And that ugly factory stamped steel frontmost crossmember would go and be replaced with a custom made smooth one.

Keep us updated with your progress, Cazenave26. Good luck.
 
I’ve haven‘t been able to anything for a while, but went out to remove the remaining items bolted to the frame and start scraping it down and…. UTTER FRUSTRATION!

I‘ve now got welded nuts/threads broken off in the frame even with pre treating them with penetrating fluid. One of the sway bar brackets can’t be removed without cutting. I can cut the bolt to remove the bracket, but now I’m looking at having to open the frame to replace the lost mount point. It’s bad enough most of my body mount holes on the tub have to be cut out and replaced, but the frame is rapidly becoming more trouble than it’s worth. Every time I touch the frame, hours get added to the project. With the state of some of these mount points, there is already a serious question as to whether the frame should be saved.
 
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Not to be a Debbie Downer, but yeah, all these frames rotted from the inside out. If I was starting a new CJ project, it would be getting new foundation,.. if your budget will swing it, without sweating it, get yourself one, then you know what you have, and all your tub/top work, will not have to be " transferred " at a later date, assuming your plan to own it long term.

Your pics are now showing up well on my pc so I really cant get a read on your frame as to what stage its in. Have you tried tapping an awl in the vulnerable places to see if its " soft " in places ?

Ok, just got the pictures to load right, that's a really nice looking frame,... dont know... Id try tapping on it.
 
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The right tools make a world of difference. You are ahead of the game because your frame is off and you can flip it at any position. The broken bolts just simply grind them flush, drill them out and rethread with the next bigger size tap. The welded nuts have enough meat for this. Don’t skimp on the drill bit and tap quality and use cutting oil. If a welded nut fell off, weld a new one in. Enlarge the hole if you have to or use longer bolts through the frame. As for the frame mount points, fabricate them. They don’t have to look like the originals. Use 3x3 inch thick wall square tubing and cut diagonally. I know it’s easier said than done, but this is enjoyable work. Good luck and don’t give up!
 
That frame looks mighty fine to me also. Once again, don’t know.
 
Mighty fine looking frame. Well worth the effort to restore. Up here in the rust belt, We would give a left nut for a frame that nice.
 
You can get what I call capture nuts or make them fit inside the frame. Basically a nut welded to a flat rectangular piece roughly width of frame. Put it in through an existing hole in the frame and you don’t have to get a wrench on it as the flat plate is held by the frame.


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